An Account of Three Journeys from the Cape Town into the Southern Parts of Africa; Undertaken for the Discovery of New Plants, towards the Improvement of the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew. By Mr. Francis Masson, One of His Majesty's Gardeners. Addressed to Sir John Pringle, Bart. P. R. S.

XVI. An Account of Three Journeys from the Cape Town into the Southern Parts of Africa; undertaken for the Discovery of new Plants, towards the Improvement of the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew. By Mr. Francis Masson, one of his Majesty's Gardeners. Addressed to Sir John Pringle, Bart. P. R. S. TO SIR JOHN PRINGLE, BART. P. R. S. Kew, Nov. 1775. SIR, R. Feb. 1, 1776. In compliance with your request, I now send you the account of my first journey from the Cape, which I have transcribed from my journal; and if you shall find it to contain any thing worthy the notice of the Royal Society, I beg you would do me the honour to present it to that illustrious Body; and believe, that with the greatest pleasure I shall communicate to you and to them the remaining part of my observations. I am, &c. AN ACCOUNT OF THE FIRST JOURNEY. ON the 10th of December, 1772, I set out from the Cape Town, towards the evening, attended by a Dutchman, and a Hottentot who drove my waggon, which was drawn by eight oxen; this being the manner of travelling there. They prefer oxen to horses, because they are much cheaper, and more easily maintained. At sun-set we crossed the Salt River, about two miles distance from the Cape Town, where is placed a high flag-staff with a large old piece of cannon, intended to give signals to prevent a surprize from an enemy: these signals are answered by others, placed upon eminences at proper distances, and alarm the adjacent country in a short time. In the night we travelled over a large sandy plain; and towards the morning stopped at a small cottage called Elfs Kraal. The next day we partook of the diversion of hunting a small species of antelope, which the Dutch call Steenbock. We crossed great part of this sandy plain, which is very extensive, reaching from the Tyger Berg to Bay Falso, upwards of twenty miles; from the Table Mountain to Hottentot Holland Mountains, about thirty miles. The soil of this plain is unfit for cultivation; being a pure white sand, blown by the S.E. wind from the shore of Falso Bay, and often forming large hillocks; it is, nevertheless, overgrown with an infinite variety of plants peculiar to this country. 11th, We passed the Tyger Berg, leaving it on our left hand; and along its skirts saw many fine plantations, abounding with corn fields and vineyards. 12th, We passed the Paerden Berg (that is, Horses Mountain) so called from the number of Zebras formerly found there, which are called by the Dutch inhabitants wild horses. Towards the evening, crossing the Berg Rivier (that is, Mountain River) we entered into the district called Draakensteen, a valley about ten miles in length, and about five in breadth; containing many large plantations of vineyards, and orchards of most kinds of European fruit, which have been transported hither by the Dutch; viz. apricots, peaches, plumbs, apples, pears, figs, mulberries, almonds, chestnuts, and walnuts; but no Indian fruits, except the guyava and jambo, neither of which ripen well. These plantations are generally situated near the foot of the mountains, and watered by small streams, which descend with great rapidity, and are conveyed all over their gardens and vineyards. 16th, We travelled to a small village called Perel, so named from its situation on the N.E. side of a hill called Perel Berg. In it is a church and about a dozen of houses dispersed along the foot of the hill, with pretty gardens and vineyards, which produce excellent wine. 17th, I went up to the top of the Perel Berg, where I spent a whole day in search of plants, and hunting a sort of antelope called Ree Bock; but had no success. I saw nothing here so worthy of observation as two large solid rocks, of a roundish figure; each of which, I may posi- tively say, is more than a mile about at the base, and upwards of two hundred feet high above the ground. Their surfaces are nearly smooth, without chink or fissures, and they are found to be a species of *saxum* or granite, different from that which compose the neighbouring mountains. 18th, From hence we continued our journey to a valley, adjoining the S.E. part of Draakensteen, called Fransche Hoek;(a) it having been settled by a party of French refugees, who left France about the beginning of this century. Though but a poor settlement, being a cold, moorish soil, it produces corn enough for its inhabitants, four wine and some fruit. Drakensteen and Fransche Hoek are bounded on the N.E. and S.E. by a chain of high mountains, which have their beginning at Cape Falso, run in a winding course to the N.W. of St. Helena Bay, and send out several branches into the interior parts of the country. These two valleys are watered by the Berg Rivier, which rises in the Stellenbosch mountains. It is a considerable river, but nowhere navigable. The banks are decorated with a great variety of uncommon trees. January 4, 1773, We reached Stellenbosch, a small village about thirty miles N.E. from the Cape Town, consisting of about thirty houses, forming one regular street, with a row of large oak-trees on each side along the front of the houses, which render it very pleasant in (a) This, I suppose, to be the place which some of the French voyagers in their observations on the Cape of Good Hope, call Petite Rochelle. the hot season. These oaks, which are of the same sort with ours in England, were brought out of Europe by ADRIAN VANDERSTELL, formerly governor of the Cape, who built this village, and gave it his name. The country round it is populous, and contains many rich farms, which produce plenty of corn and wine. It is watered by a small river called Eerste Rivier, which discharges itself into the East part of Falzo Bay. The farmers we found busy in treading out their corn; which is performed by horses in the following manner. They make a circular floor about thirty, forty, or fifty feet diameter, with a composition of clay and cow-dung, which binds very hard; round it they erect a mud wall, about breast high; this floor they cover with sheaves, beginning in the middle, and laying them in concentric circles till they reach the outside. They then turn in about twenty or thirty horses, which a Hottentot, furnished with a long whip, drives round and round till the corn be trodden out, and the straw become as fine as chaff; which they afterwards clean, and carry into their granaries. This method they can practice with great security, as it seldom rains here from the middle of October to the middle of March. 5th, From thence we travelled along the foot of the Stellenbosch mountains to Hottentot Holland, a pleasant and level country; surrounded on three sides by the mountains; and the other opening to the East part of Falzo Bay. In it are eight or ten plantations, with ele- gant houses, gardens, vineyards, and corn fields: this country lies about thirty-five miles East from the Cape Town. 6th, We ascended the mountains by an exceedingly steep rugged path, which the peasants call Hottentot Holland Kloof\(^{(b)}\), and after much labour and fatigue gained their summit, when we entered a spacious plain, interspersed with an infinite number of large fragments of rocks, visibly decayed by the force of the S.E. wind, which blows here during the summer with very great force. Some of these rocks appeared like the ruins of church-steeple, and were worn so thin with wind and rain, that the softer parts of them were perforated in many places. They are formed of the \textit{cos quadrum} of \textit{Linnaeus}. The soil about them is a black earth intermixed with a pure white sand, probably proceeding from the decay of the rocks. These mountains abound with a great number of curious plants, and are, I believe, the richest mountains in Africa for a botanist. We then passed the Palmet Rivier, so called by the peasants from a plant\(^{(c)}\) which almost covers the water; the leaves of which greatly resemble that of the ananas or pineapple, but their flowers are like those of a reed. At night we crossed a small river, called Boter Rivier; and took up our lodging at a mean cottage, where the Dutchmen and Hottentots live almost promiscuously together, their beds consisting only of sheep's skins. The next morning an \(^{(b)}\) Kloof, is a narrow passage over the lower part of a chain of mountains, or sometimes a narrow passage between mountains. \(^{(c)}\) \textit{Schoenus serratus}. old Hottentot brought out a fat wether, and slaughtered it; part of which we ate for our breakfast. 8th, We came to a hot bath, situated on the S.E. side of a large mountain called Zwart Berg\(^{(d)}\). The India Company have erected here a tolerable house for the reception of sick people. The water is scalding hot where it springs out of the earth; but after being conveyed about ten or twelve paces to the bath, it becomes more temperate. The people here seem to use it for all diseases without exception, and often perhaps receive more hurt than benefit by it. 10th, We crossed Rivier Zonder Eynde; that is, Endless River, which discharges itself into the Breed Rivier\(^{(e)}\). At night we came to Sweet Milk Valley, where there is a good house belonging to the overseer of the Company's woods; who received us with great civility, and kept us with him five days. The fourth day, we went into the woods, which are about half-way up a high chain of mountains that extends along the N. and N.E. side of the valley. I was accompanied by a farmer's son, who took with him eight large rough dogs, which in our way started two wolves; one of them we wounded with small shot, so that the dogs overtook him. A fierce battle ensued, which lasted an hour before he was killed. We afterwards climbed over many dreadful precipices till we arrived at the woods; which are dark and gloomy, interspersed with climbing shrubs of various kinds. The trees are very high; some from eighty to a hundred feet; \(^{(d)}\) Black Mountain. \(^{(e)}\) Broad River. often growing out of perpendicular rocks where no earth is to be seen. Among these the water sometimes falls in cascades over rocks two hundred feet perpendicular, with awful noise. I endured this day much fatigue in these sequestered and unfrequented woods, with a mixture of horror and admiration. The greatest part of the trees that compose them are unknown to botanists. Some I found in flower; others, which were not so, I was obliged to leave for the researches of those who may come after me in a more fortunate season. 16th, I visited a Hottentot Kraal: the men were all, at this time, attending their herds; but the women and children were employed in building their huts; which are very low, of a circular figure, and made of slender poles, the ends of which are stuck into the ground, so as to form a number of arches crossing one another; these they afterwards cover with mats made of reeds. They have a round hole in the middle of the floor, in which they make the fire, and sit all round it upon the ground; but have no chimney or hole to let out the smoke. 18th, We crossed the Breed Rivier, which is considerable, and only passable in winter by a ferry; but at this season we forded it at the place where the Rivier Zonder Eynde joins it. At night we arrived at Schwelendam, a place about 150 miles N.E. from the Cape Town, where we remained two days; but finding the season too far spent for making any considerable collections, I returned back to the Cape by the same road I came. It was on this journey journey that I collected the seed of the many beautiful species of *ericae* which, I find, have succeeded so well in the Royal Garden at Kew. --- **SECOND JOURNEY.** R. Feb. 22, 1776. My second journey was performed in company with Dr. Thunberg, a native of Sweden; who was sent out by the Dutch to collect plants at the Cape, and is on that errand now in the Dutch East Indies. Sept. 11, 1773, We left the Cape Town, directing our course along the N.W. Coast. We passed the Blue Mountains; but the weather proving rainy, and attended with a fog, we lost our intended road, and were obliged to lodge that night in the fields. 12th, We came to Groene Kloof, a place belonging to the East-India-Company, where we remained several days, the weather being rainy and unsettled; during which time we made several excursions along the sides of the hills, and also over a large sandy desert towards the sea shore; where we found a great variety of beautiful plants, and several animals peculiar to this climate; viz. antelopes, ostriches, and plovers of several sorts. 19th, From Groene Kloof we passed a small hill, called Konter Berg; and from thence entered a large barren country, named Zwart Land (a). The earth is a grey sand, (a) Black Land. level for many miles, and covered over with low shrubs of various sorts. At night we came to a farmer's house, where we remained two days, ranging the adjacent fields, in which we found many curious plants, and shot several animals, as steenbockens, hares, partridges. 22d. Still, in the same direction, we travelled over a deep, sandy country with great fatigue; when, towards the evening, we arrived at Saldana Bay. Here we lodged with a farmer on the East side of the bay; but being desirous of crossing to a house inhabited by some of the company's servants, who during the summer season shoot seals for oil, on the 23d we made a signal for them to send their boat; which they immediately answered, and brought us over the bay, which is about two miles in breadth, where we were hospitably entertained by the master. I observed, that the direction of this bay is laid down wrong in all the maps that I have seen, except that of the Abbé de la Caille; they have given it a right East direction, whereas it has nearly a South direction, almost parallel to the sea coast, and, I suppose, almost twenty miles in length. The entrance of the bay is difficult, having several small islands in it, and the adjacent country being little better than a sandy desert, and the water brackish; it is, I think, improper for shipping. It lies about fifty miles N.N.W. from the Cape Town. We found here great variety of curious plants; and in particular, a large bulbous root, growing on dry precipices, which the Dutch call vergift-boll, poison bulb; the juice of which, they say, the Hottentots use as an ingredient to poison their arrows. We We found it to be a species of *amaryllis*, and, by the leaves growing in a fan shape, we called it *amaryllis disticha*. 27th, From Saldana Bay we journeyed to Witte Klip (White Cliff) being a white granite stone of an enormous size; from the top of which we had a charming view of the sea coast from St. Helena Bay to the Cape of Good Hope. The whole country affords a fine field for botany, being enamelled with the greatest number of flowers I ever saw, of exquisite beauty and fragrance. Here we saw numbers of wild dogs, and some of them so near that I could discern them to be about the size of a large fox-hound. They go in large packs, and do great damage to the cattle. They also destroy the antelopes wherever they go, by hunting them down in the same manner as our hounds do a stag. 30th, To St. Helena Bay, where the Berg Rivier discharges itself, which is here very deep, and bordered on each side by extensive marshes that are impassable, and overgrown with very high reeds. Those reeds are plentifully stocked with birds of various sorts, which build their nests upon such of them as hang over the water. There is one bird, in particular, which has a wonderful effect among the green reeds; its body being a bright crimson, with black and grey wings; and by the brightness of their colours, when sitting among the reeds, they look like so many scarlet lillies: this is the *loxia orix* of Linnæus. There are still some of the sea horse, or *hippopotamus amphibius*, in this river; but it is now prohibited to shoot any any of them, as they are nearly destroyed for 800 miles from the Cape. The farmers shoot them for their flesh, which they esteem as good as pork; and of their hide, which is extremely thick, they make whips. There happened at this time a great flood, that prevented our crossing the river at this place, and obliged us to travel four days up the river to a ferry, which greatly retarded our journey, and occasioned many difficulties by the deepness of the sand and brackishness of the water; nor is there any wine or fruit in this part of the country, owing to the saltness of the soil. Oct. 6th, We came to the pont or ferry, where we collected a great number of beautiful plants, particularly ixia, irides, and gladioli. 7th, We crossed the Berg Rivier, and entered a fine plain country, called 24 Rivieren District; so called from the number of small rivulets which run through that district, and discharge into the Berg Rivier. Here we had some four wines, and oranges and lemons in great plenty. 9th, We passed a branch of that chain of mountains which I mentioned in my first journey. They continue for many miles further to the N.W. gradually diminishing in height to the Western shore. This passage over the mountains is called Kartouw, and is remarked for being one of the most difficult in this part of Africa; which we found true, being obliged to lead our horses for three hours amidst incessant rain, which made the road so slippery that, by often tumbling among the loose stones, they had their legs almost stripped of the skin; skin; and the precipices were so steep, that we were often afraid to turn our eyes to either side. Towards sun-set, with great labour and anxiety, we got safe to the other side, where we found a miserable cottage belonging to a Dutchman. Being however cold and wet, we were glad to take refuge under his roof. The hut had only one room; but our host gave us a corner to sleep in, which was detached by a hanging of reed mats, where he and his wife also slept; and in the other end lay a number of Hottentots promiscuously together. 10th, We crossed the Olyfant's Rivier, nearly 130 miles North of the Cape Town, where we entered into a pleasant valley, bounded on each side by very high mountains; those on the East had their summits covered with snow, it being then their spring. This country produces good corn and European fruit in great plenty, especially oranges and lemons in the greatest profusion; and the trees grow to a great size. They have also wine, but it is sour and unwholesome; which, I think, may be owing to their planting their vines in wet, marshy places. The fruit yields watery juices, which seldom ripen, but produce good brandy. There is a hot bath here, which we visited, issuing from the side of a mountain. The water was nearly boiling hot at the place it issued out of the rock; and the people who used it affirmed, that it was hot enough to boil a piece of meat. I observed an orange tree, which had been either raised from a single seed, or planted when very young, in a seam of the rock where the water boiled out, which, to my surprize flourished amazingly, and all the sides of the basin where the people bathed were matted round with the fibres. 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th, We travelled along the banks of this river, making short stages. The meadows yielded excellent pasture for our cattle, the grass reaching up to their bellies, but of a coarse texture, being chiefly *Juncus*, *Scirpus*, and *Cyperus*. 15th, We attempted to cross the high ridge of mountains on the North side; but found it impracticable, having overturned our waggons on the side of a precipice, and greatly damaged them, which obliged us to return to a peasant's house to get them repaired. This done, we held a consultation what course to take; and after some warm debates, concluded to send our waggons round to a place called Rood Land, there to wait for us, while the Doctor and I directed our course through a country called Koud Bocke Veld, or Cold Country of Antelopes; so named from a species of antelopes which inhabits here, called Spring bock. This animal when hunted, instead of running, avails itself of surprizing springs or leaps, which I shall have occasion more particularly to mention hereafter. 17th, We directed our course Eastward through Elans Kloof, a narrow winding passage through a high chain of mountains, which lies to the N.E. of Olyfant's Rivier. This road is rugged beyond description, consisting of broken and shattered rocks and rugged precipices, encompassed on each side with horrid impassable moun- tains; the sides of which are covered with fragments of rocks that have tumbled down from the summits at different times. We saw few plants here, only some trees of the *protea grandiflora* thinly dispersed along the skirts of these mountains. We crossed, in this passage, several small rivers of the purest water I ever beheld, which afforded us no small relief during the heat of the day. Towards the evening we entered the Koud Bocke Veld; and afterwards came to a peasant's house, where we remained that night. 18th, 19th, 20th, We travelled through the Koud Bocke Veld, where we found but few plants: the face of the country being exceedingly barren, and not so much as a shrub to be seen. The season here appeared to be two months later than in the neighbourhood of the Cape Town, although the distance be not above a hundred miles, in a direct line in a Northern direction. This country is but small, containing about nine or ten Dutch places, the inhabitants of which subsist entirely by their cattle. Their winters are often so severe, that the ground is covered with snow for ten days together; and their early calves and lambs are often killed by the inclemency of the weather. Neither orange trees nor vines will live here, owing to the bleakness of its situation; and the boors informed us, the summers are often so unkindly, that their wheat is blighted while in ear, so that they purchase corn with their cattle from the low country farmers. The country is encompassed on all sides with very high mountains, almost perpendicular, consisting of bare rocks, without out the least appearance of vegetation; and upon the whole, has a most melancholy effect on the mind. We saw some herds of the spring-bocks, a species of antelope, as observed before, which were so shy, that we could not come within musket-shot of them. 21st, We descended by a very steep path into another small country, called Warm Bocke Veld, encompassed also on all sides with horrid mountains, but not nearly so barren. Here we had some four wine and fruit; we were also delighted to see the luxuriance of the meadows, the grass reaching to our horses bellies, enriched with great variety of ixiae, gladioli and irides, most of which were in flower at the Cape in the month of August. 22d, We had a high chain of mountains to pass before we arrived at Rood Land, where we expected to meet our waggons. Upon inquiring about the road thither of the women, with whom we had lodged the preceding night, the men being all from home, so that we could not procure a guide; they informed us, there was only one pass, called Moftart's Hoek, which was very dangerous; and that, without a guide, we should run the risk of losing our lives, having a rapid river several times to cross, the fords of which, by the late rains, had been rendered more dangerous than usual. We were a little intimidated by this information; but fortifying ourselves with resolution we proceeded, and in an hour arrived at the first precipice, where we looked down with horror on the river, which formed several cataracts inconceivably wild and romantic, romantic. This pass, which took us near three hours march, is at the broadest about a quarter of a mile, but in general not above an eighth part of one. The mountains on each side rising almost perpendicular to a stupendous height, had their summits then covered with snow, part of which remains till March. This river, which is the beginning of the Broad River, we had four times to cross. The ford was exceedingly rough, the bed of the river being filled with huge stones, which tumble down from the sides of the mountain; but we thought our labour and difficulties largely repaid by the number of rare plants we found here. The bank of the river is covered with great variety of evergreen trees; viz. *brabejum stellatifolium*, *kiggelaria Africana*, *myrtus angustifolia*, and the precipices are ornamented with *ericae* and many other mountain plants never described before. At night we arrived at Rood Land, where we found our servants and waggons, and being a little fatigued we devoted the next day to rest and the examination of our plants. It is to be observed, that during the preceding five days we had rather shortened our distance from the Cape, by reason of the impossibility of taking the waggons over the mountains with us; so that we were now one day's journey nearer the Cape than we had been on Bocke Veld. 26th, We travelled up a high mountain, called Winter Hoek, on the N.W. of Rood Land, one of the highest mountains in this part of Africa, whose top is covered with snow the greatest part of the year. Here we expected to find plants that might endure the severity of our our climate; but when we arrived at its top, we found nothing but a few grasses, *restiones*, *elegia*; the whole mountain consisting of rock, lying in horizontal *frata*, without any sort of earth, except a little decayed rock in which the grasses grew. From the foot of this mountain to its summit is a good day's journey, it being very rugged and difficult to mount. We found many curious plants growing along the borders of the streams, which run in great plenty down the mountain's side. Rood Land is a fine level country, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains, except on the East, where the valley continues for several days journey inclosed by mountains on each side. Those on the Northern side continue for several hundred miles in an oblique direction, and terminate on the Eastern coast. This country produces corn and wine in abundance, and most of our European fruits, which have been planted there by the new inhabitants, who are descendants of the French refugees; a civil, hospitable, and industrious people. 28th, 29th, We continued our journey along the banks of the Broad River, where we collected many remarkably fine flowers, particularly one of the lilaceous kind, with a long spike of pendulous flowers, of a greenish azure colour, which among the long grass had an admirable effect (this is *ixia viridis*). 30th, We crossed the Hexen Rivier (Witches River), which has a passage through the mountains, and joins the the Broad River; this place is also remarkable for a hot bath. 3rd, We passed on to Ko Aree Rivier, where we found many new plants; in particular, *gerania* and *stapelia*. Nov. 2d, To Koekman's Rivier, the banks of which are covered with thick woods, and furnished with a variety of birds, which afforded us good sport. The trees were mostly of the *mimosa nilotica* of LINNÆUS; the species of the birds I have not yet determined, not being provided with books upon Ornithology to settle one half of those which I collected on this journey. 5th, We arrived at Swellendam, described in my first journey; and the same day dined with the Land Droit, who is a justice of peace, and collects different taxes from the peasants. After dinner we pursued our route to Buf-fel Tagt's Rivier, where is a place belonging to the East India Company. There they keep a few wood-cutters, and from thence supply the wheelers at the Cape, conveying their wood in waggons drawn by oxen: this place, I think, is about 150 miles from the Cape. Here we rested five days for the benefit of our oxen, which had become very lean, and the Doctor got a fresh set out of the East India Company's herd. 10th, To Davenhoek's Rivier, where we remained all night, and the next morning proceeded on our journey. The Doctor imprudently took the ford without the least inquiry; when on a sudden, he and his horse plunged over head and ears into a pit, that had been made by the *hippopotamus amphibius*, which formerly inhabited habited those rivers. The pit was very deep, and steep on all sides, which made my companion's fate uncertain for a few minutes; but, after several strong exertions, the horse gained the opposite side with his rider. 12th, To Caffer Kuyl's Rivier. Upon our left hand, a few miles distant, we had the chain of mountains before mentioned, which here take a N.E. direction. Their summits terminate in a number of lofty, rugged pieces, which have an admirable effect. Between this chain of mountains and the sea on the S.E. lies an extensive country, to appearance low; but when one travels across it, it presents a continued series of hills and dales. The hills are quite smooth and easy of ascent, and covered with long coarse grass, which cattle seldom eat. On the declivities of these low hills grows the *aloe Socotrina* in large clumps, which when old have stems about five or six feet high, with only a few thick leaves on their tops, that at a distance appear like bands of Hottentots. The peasants make great quantities of the gum aloes from the sap of the leaves, which they sell at the Cape from two to six pence per pound. There is a fine species of antelope, which inhabits only here, called by the peasants Bonte Bock; something larger than a fallow deer, very shy, but not very swift. 15th, To Goud's Rivier; which at that time was about 100 yards broad, and the water came up to the seat of our saddles. On each side of this river lies an extraordinary track of land, which in the Hottentot language is called Carro. It is a dry, burning soil, of a reddish colour, intermixed intermixed with rotten rock, and entirely divested of grass; but enriched with an infinite number of evergreen shrubs, both frutescent and succulent: among the latter we found many new species of *crassula*, *cotyledon*, *euphorbia*, *portulaca*, *mesembryanthemum*. We resolved to visit the sea shore, and particularly Mossel-Baay; when, late in the evening, we came to the house of an European, who received us very hospitably. He was a native of Swedish Pomerania, about seventy years old; had been shipwrecked on the coast of England fifty years ago, and spoke much of the hospitality of the English. He was a man of learning, and expressed many sensible reflexions on the tyranny of his native country, which had forced him to seek for an asylum in the desarts of Africa. His house was very mean, built of mud, and miserably furnished; not having a bed to lie on, though he had several hundred oxen and some thousands of sheep. He had a number of Hottentot vassals, whose huts were situated round his folds, where they kept several large fires all night long, to frighten away the wolves and tigers. 16th, We came to Mossel-Baay, which is very large, open, and exposed to the S.E. and E. The shore is covered with shrubs of various kinds; the greatest part of which were unknown to us, and many we did not find in flower. To the N.E. of Mossel-Baay lies a woody country, called Houtniquas Land; whose woods, intercepted by rivers and precipices, are so large, that their extent is not perfectly known. These woods are a great treasure to the Dutch, and will be very serviceable to the inhabitants inhabitants of the Cape, when their other woods are exhausted. In them are numbers of wild buffaloes that are very fierce, and some elephants; which renders travelling dangerous. We now directed our course Northward to the foot of the great chain of mountains, which we had again to cross; it is there very broad, being a hard day's march from one side to the other. This pass is called by the peasants Hartiquas Kloof. 19th, We were several hours in ascending, and after descending on the other side, we entered a valley, surrounded by lofty mountains: here we rested that night by a stream of water, where we collected many curious plants. 20th, We continued our journey through a dismal valley, where we saw neither man nor beast; but our labour was generously rewarded by the productions of the vegetable kingdom, having found several new species of plants, which for neatness and elegance exceeded anything I had ever seen. At night we got clear of the mountains, but entered a rugged country, which the new inhabitants name Canaan's Land; though it might rather be called the Land of Sorrow; for no land could exhibit a more wasteful prospect; the plains consisting of nothing but rotten rock, intermixed with a little red loam in the interstices, which supported a variety of scrubby bushes, in their nature evergreen, but, by the scorching heat of the Sun, stripped almost of all their leaves. Yet notwithstanding the disagreeable aspect of this tract, we enriched our collection by a variety of succulent plants, which we had never seen before, and which appeared to us like a new creation. 21st, To Great Thorn River, where we encamped under a large *mimosa* tree. During the night, we had several loud claps of thunder with rain. 22d, We entered Lange Kloof, which is a narrow valley, not exceeding two miles at the broadest, and in length about 100; bounded on the S.W. by the chain of mountains beforementioned, and on the North and East by a lower ridge, which runs nearly parallel. It contains about seven or eight places, which are from twelve to twenty miles distant from each other; the houses are very mean, without walls, consisting only of poles stuck in the ground, meeting at the top, and thatched over with reeds. The people, however, are wealthy, possessing large herds and flocks. The Hottentots are in general servants to the Dutch farmers; who give them for wages beads, and tobacco mixed with hemp; the latter, which intoxicates them, they are extremely fond of. A few free Hottentots still remain here, who live in their ancient manner; but who are miserable wretches, having hardly any stock of cattle. 29th, To Kromme Rivier (that is, Crooked River) a long, marshy vale, which lies much lower than the former, and is bounded by a continuation of the abovementioned mountains. 30th, 30th, To Effe Bosch, where we encamped that night in the open fields, clear of the woods, for fear of the lions. Dec. 1st, We entered a fine level country, bordering on the Eastern Ocean, leaving behind us the chain of mountains before mentioned, which runs obliquely across the country from the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean. At night we came to Zee-Koe Rivier, or Sea-Cow River, so called, erroneously, from the *hippopotamus amphibius*, which formerly inhabited it, but is now almost extirpated. We rested here eight days; in which time we ranged the adjacent woods and fields, where we greatly increased our collection. The river was frequented by a variety of water-fowl which afforded us good sport: there were numbers of the *phenicopterus ruber*, *pelicanus onocrotalus*, with many others, which we could not clas, being unprovided, as I said, with books of Ornithology. We lodged at the house of Jacob Kock, an old German, who used us with great civility. He had built a handsome house, made gardens and vineyards, possessed numerous herds of cattle, and had upwards of a hundred Hottentots in his service, whom he employed in taking care of them. The face of the country changes greatly, being open, plain, and covered with verdure, extending many miles along the sea-coast, containing several tribes of Hottentots. The rivers formerly abounded with the *hippopotamus amphibius*; but since the Dutch inhabited these parts, they have almost destroyed them. They shoot them for their flesh, which they esteem equal to pork, their fat being much of the same quality. The manner in which the Hottentots catch these animals is as follows: the banks of the rivers, as I have already observed, are covered with almost impenetrable woods; these animals in the daytime lodge themselves in the deepest places of the river, and when night comes, make excursions into the adjacent fields to graze, taking their course through paths, which they have made in the woods. In these paths the Hottentots dig large pits, which they cover over with boughs of trees and grass; then hunting them out of the fields, the animals make full-speed towards the river, and fall into these pits; from whence they are unable to get out, on account of their great weight, and then the men come up with their lances and kill them. We found here a new palm, of the pith of which the Dutchman told us the Hottentots make bread; but we could get no satisfactory account of their method of making it. We observed two species; one about a foot and a half diameter in the stem, and about twelve feet high, with entire leaves; they appeared to be very old, and seldom bore fruit. The other sort had no stem, with the leaves a little serrated, and lying flat on the ground, which produced a large conical fructification about eighteen inches long, and a foot or more in circumference; squamosa, and under each of the squamae, is an oval nut, about the size of a chestnut, of a beautiful red colour, but insipid taste. The male plant is similar to to the female, only not producing fruit, but bearing a *Strobulus*, and containing the *pollen*, or male-dust, in small cells underneath its *squamae*. In the woods here we found the *euphorbia antiquorum* forty feet high. The inhabitants observe, that the honey found near these trees is unwholesome. Being still determined to continue our journey about 150 miles further, directing our course towards the middle of the country, and to return to the Cape another way; I furnished myself with a set of fresh oxen and a fortnight's provision; and Mr. Rock gave us one of his sons for a guide and to serve us as interpreter, he being a perfect master of the Hottentot language. 9th, We took leave of our hospitable friend, and departing towards the evening, we stopped that night at the house of Jacob van Rennen, a wealthy grazier: this was the last Dutch place in this part of the country. From hence we travelled through a rugged hilly country, covered with thick coppices of evergreen trees; but the way was so rough that our waggons were almost shaken to pieces. Towards noon we crossed Camtour's River, where we rested during the heat of the day, and amused ourselves in the woods along its banks, which were extremely pleasant: the river is broad and deep in many places. The woods are frequented by elephants, buffaloes, and lions; and the deepest parts of the river by the *hippopotami*. We found many new plants here, notwithstanding our stay was so short. In the afternoon we advanced through through a woody country, where we observed numbers of butterflies, which appeared like those of India; but from the thickness of the woods we could not procure a single specimen. At night we came to Lory's River, so called from a species of parrot, which is found here. We were visited by several Hottentots, who came out of the woods armed with lances, but behaved very obligingly, and slept by our fire all night; and we at the same time entertained them with tobacco, of which they were exceedingly fond. 11th, We travelled over a pleasant country, diversified with smooth green hills, interspersed with evergreens, and stocked with numerous flocks of the *capra dorcas* of Linnaeus, *equus zebra*, and *camelus struthio*; which, together with the fine disposition of the woods and groves, could not but charm us, who, for upwards of three months, had been climbing rugged mountains, and crossing sultry deserts. In the evening we came to Van Staad's Rivier, where we remained all night, and were visited by several Hottentots, who brought us milk in baskets made of fine reeds, which they weave so close that they hold any liquid. 12th, We crossed Van Staad's Rivier, where there is a large Kraal, or Hottentot village, containing upwards of 200 inhabitants, who are possessed of great herds of bullocks, but of no sheep. These Hottentots were remarkably well-shaped, and stouter made than any other Hottentots I have yet seen. They are also very bold in encountering encountering wild beasts, particularly the lion, which often attacks their folds, and makes great havoc. When this happens, all the young men of the Kraal go in pursuit of him, directed by small dogs, who follow his scent: as soon as they discover him in the bushes, they irritate him, till he springs out with fury and attacks them; when being all armed with haftagays, they often throw twenty or thirty into his body at once; but it is common to lose a man or two in such attacks. These Hottentots were all cloathed in croffes, or mantles, made of the hides of oxen, which they dress in a particular manner, making them as pliant as a piece of cloth: they wore the hairy side outwards. Their breast, belly, and thighs, were naked, except being croffed by a number of leathern straps round their middle. They had no other covering for their private parts, than a muzzle of leather exactly covering the extremity of the penis, and suspended by a leathern thong from their girdle, which was commonly ornamented with brass rings. Some had the skin of a steenbock hung over their breast, with the skin of its fore legs and hoofs behind, which they look upon as a great ornament; others had a buffalo's tail, fastened to a girdle which was tied round the thigh; others a porcupine's quill stuck through each ear; others had plates of brass of six inches square fastened to their hair, hanging on each side of their head; others large ivory rings round their arms, with several other ridiculous fancies too tedious to mention. The women were dress'd almost in the same taste, except that a great number of small thongs of leather, suspended from from their girdle, reached down to their knees, and in some measure concealed their nakedness. They have captains or chiefs over each Kraal, who claim the greatest part of the herds; the others seem only to be servants, though they have everything in common, and pay little respect to their superiors. These Hottentots are called Gunaquas, but were mixed with another people whom the Dutch call Caffers, who border upon Terra de Natal. They were all armed with hassaguays, of which every one had eight or ten in his left hand. We found here the true Cape jassemine, or gardenia stellata, and the coral tree, erethrina corallodendron. The climate here differs much from that of the Cape. They have no S.E. wind, which is so troublesome there; their strongest wind is from the S.W. They seldom have rain in summer, though often thunder and lightning; the clouds being attracted by the lofty mountains are spent in showers before they reach the plain. 13th, 14th, We made but very short stages, employing our time in collecting plants, all of which were new. The buffalo is numerous in this country: it is a fierce animal, and larger than the biggest of our English oxen. In the day-time they retire to the woods, which renders it very dangerous to botanize there. We here saw two lions for the first time, at about 4 or 500 yards distance; but they took no notice of us, keeping their eyes upon a clump of the capra dorcas, which were feeding at some distance from them. We shot two of the buffaloes which proved good eating. 7 15th, 15th, To Zwart Kop's Rivier, where we rested all night. 16th, To Zwart Kop's Salt-pan, where we remained most part of that day. This Salt-pan is a lake several miles distant from the sea, and upon an eminence. In the rainy season it is filled with fresh water, which, by the saltness of the ground, soon becomes strongly impregnated with saline particles; and when the summer's heat exhales the fresh water, the bottom of the lake is covered with a crust of pure salt two or three feet thick. The lake is about three miles round, and surrounded by a rising ground, covered with a great variety of curious shrubs, many of which proved new. Here we found several singular insects, and among many others the gryllus and cimex. 17th, We travelled through a miserable parched country, covered with shrubs and succulent plants of various kinds; but the grass was entirely burnt up by the heat of the Sun. We saw numbers of wild animals, and in particular a variety of the Zebra, called by the Hottentots Opeagha. We also observed the print and dung of elephants and lions. At noon we came to Sunday's River, where we rested a few hours, and consulted with our guide, whom we took from the last Dutch place, about proceeding on our journey. But both he and our servants refused to advance further; telling us, we were now on the borders of a powerful nation of Hottentots, called Caffers; who, they said, would kill us, were it only to get the iron belonging to our waggons. In consequence of these remonstrances, and the bad state our carriages were were in, being ready to drop to pieces, and many of our oxen sick, we, with much reluctance, consented to return the same way we came. 20th, We arrived again at Sea-cow River, where we repaired our waggons. 24th, 28th, We proceeded homewards through Kromme Rivier and part of Lange Kloof; but being informed there was a hot bath about a day's journey to the Northward, we determined to see it, leaving our waggons and servants in Lange Kloof. 29th, Towards the evening we crossed the ridge of mountains on the North-side of Lange Kloof, and at night came to a solitary cottage belonging to a Dutchman, where we found several Dutch people, who were going next day to the hot bath, to use the water. We were glad of their company, and travelled over the driest country I ever beheld. The plains were covered with loose stones, and not a blade of grass to be seen; but we found many rare species of *crassula*, *mesembryanthemum*, and other succulent plants. In some places not a drop of water was to be found within thirty miles circuit. We could of course expect to see but few animals; those were the *capra dorcas*, *equus zebra*, *kudu*, and spring-bucks. 30th, At night we arrived at the hot bath, which is situated at the foot of a ridge of dry mountains: the water is very hot, and tastes strongly of iron. There is a Dutch settlement about 300 yards from the fountain, where they float their gardens every night with the water, which at that distance is still smoaking. By this means they have all kind of garden vegetables in the greatest perfection. Next morning we went up to the top of this ridge of mountains, which appeared like a mass of rocks heaped one on top of another, where we had an extensive view of the country, which appeared horrible, every thing being parched up, and even the beds of the largest rivers entirely dry. We found here a species of heath remarkable for having its branches and leaves all covered with a fine hoary down or nap, which we thought singular in that genus: we called it *erica tomentosa*. Jan. 1st, We returned to Lange Kloof, and next day overtook our waggons; but many of our oxen were sick, having caught a disease which rages there amongst the horned cattle in summer, and so affects their hoofs that they often drop off, and great numbers die. This disease proves detrimental to the Dutch peasants, who live 5 or 600 miles in the country, when they make a journey to the Cape. Their oxen are often seized with it in the middle of a desert, and sometimes must remain there for a month till they recover. This makes their journeys to the Cape long and disagreeable, especially as they are obliged to take with them their wives and children, for fear of their being murdered by the Hottentots in their absence. 3d, We came to Great Thorney River, where we again parted with our waggons, in order to examine a large tract of Carro, where it was improper to take our oxen oxen on account of the scarcity of water. Late in the afternoon we came to a peasant's house, who informed us, he had a neighbour about four hours ride from his place, by whom we should be kindly received, and who would further direct us on our journey. After having put us in the road, and given us some directions, he parted with us, and we pursued our journey till sun-set, but found no habitation. We therefore concluded, that we had certainly lost our way, and returned some miles back, where we found a road which branched off another way. In this path we continued till one o'clock in the morning, having got into a dismal valley, inclosed on each side with rugged precipices: at last we found ourselves in the middle of a thicket of thorn trees (*mimosa nilotica*) where we unsaddled our horses and kindled a fire. We passed the night with little comfort, having eaten nothing all that day; but to our great satisfaction we heard the murmuring of a stream, which we went in search of, and found good water: our concern, however, was still great for our poor horses that had nothing to eat. We spent the night in gathering wood and keeping our fire up till day-light, when I climbed up a high precipice, and viewed the country. Here I collected several curious plants, *geranium spinosum*, *stapelia euphorbioides*; and upon my return, we mounted our horses, and directed our course towards the high mountains, where we expected to find some relief, but were disappointed; for after being parched up with insupportable heat, we met not with a drop of water to quench our thirst during during the whole day's journey. But towards the evening we happily discovered a house, where we were kindly entertained, and the next morning overtook our waggons in Hartwig's Kloof; but our oxen were in a bad state, and one of them was quite unfit for service. We continued our journey without any other remarkable event, except that of losing more of our oxen by the above mentioned disease. 12th, Came to Buffels Tagt River, where we rested several days, ranging the adjacent woods, where we found many curious trees in bloom. 29th, We arrived at the Cape Town, after a journey of four months and fourteen days. THIRD JOURNEY. R. Feb. 29, 1776. Sept. 26, 1774, I set out from the Cape Town, but by the badness of the weather was obliged to stay all night at the Salt River, about two miles from the town, where there is a wine-house. I had in company only two servants, for driving my waggon and taking care of my oxen and horse. 27th, The morning being fine we travelled through the great sandy plain (lying between the Cape Town and Hottentots Holland Mountains) great part of which was under water. In the afternoon we had heavy rain, when we we crossed the Eerste Rivier, and lodged all night at a farm-house under those mountains, where we found the whole country enamelled with flowers. 28th, 30th, The weather began to grow more pleasant, the Sun shining out with force; but sudden heavy showers much retarded our journey, confining us to short stages along the foot of the Stelleboch Mountains. Oct. 1st, To Draaken Steen. 2d, To Paarle Kerk, where I was joined by Dr. THUNBERG. 4th, We went up to the top of the Paarle Mountain, where we added greatly to our collection. 5th, To Paarde Berg (Horse Mountain). 6th, We mounted to the top of Paarde Berg, where we found a treasure of new plants, which we had not seen before, and on the top had an extensive view of the adjacent country, which is level, and has but a barren appearance; yet contains several rich plantations, producing abundance of corn and wine; and the peasants live luxuriously. Their plantations lie all around the foot of this mountain, which yields a number of fine rivulets, without which this country would be uninhabited. 7th, We directed our course Northward, through a level country covered with low shrubs; but it being now spring, it was everywhere decorated with flowers of the greatest beauty, every hour's march producing new charms. At night we arrived at the foot of a mountain called Van Riebeck's Casteel. There we lodged at Mr. DRAYER'S, a wealthy wealthy farmer, who treated us in the most friendly manner, and begged that we would favour him with our company for a month, which should not cost us a farthing. 9th, We went up to the top of Riebeck's Casteel, which is very high, and on the North side inaccessible. It is about four or five miles long, and very narrow on the top; we collected here many remarkable new plants, in particular a hyacinth, with flowers of a pale gold colour. 10th, We came to the Berg Rivier, which was then impassable by reason of the late rain. 12th, With some difficulty we transported, in a large boat, our waggons and baggage to the opposite side, and afterwards obliged our oxen to swim over. From thence we proceeded through a barren uninhabited country; consequently were obliged to content ourselves with the shelter of a large leucodendron, that protected us from the S.E. wind, which at this season sometimes blows cold. 13th, We arrived at the foot of a mountain called Piquet Berg, lying direct North from the Cape Town, being a particular place of observation of the Abbe de la Caille, when he measured a degree on the meridian in the year 1750. All around the mountain the soil is sandy, but furnished with a great variety of beautiful plants, especially aspalathi. 15th, We mounted the Piquet Berg, which is very high but easy of ascent. On the top are fine plains covered vered with excellent verdure, which are of great service to the peasants, who send up their oxen during the summer season. We saw here several zebras and two colts, but they were very shy. 18th, We came to Verloore Valley, which begins on the N.W. side of the Piquet Berg. It is a narrow extent of marshy ground, inclosed by hills on each side, with a small river, frequented by a variety of water fowl, which afforded good sport. Towards the sea, the river increases in breadth, in many places upwards of a mile, and is very deep; there we saw hundreds of pelicans and wild geese, which kept the middle of the river; but we shot several wild ducks and water hens, which swam among the reeds along the side of it. 23d, We arrived at the mouth of the Verloore River, where it is discharged into the sea; but found the coast barren, consisting of sandy hills, so loose that our horses were sometimes up to their bellies, which made our journey very fatiguing. 23d, We left the shore on our left hand, and directed our course Northward towards the mouth of the Olyfant's Rivier. The heat became now great, which the whiteness of the sand still increased, and obliged us to travel late in the evening and early in the morning, resting in the middle of the day. It was also not a little fatiguing to travel here on horseback, the mole-cafts being so deep that the horses fell up to their shoulders every six or seven minutes. This animal is by the Dutch called Landmoll, but differs so much from the European mole, that it it does not belong to the same class of animals, but is entirely new. It feeds upon the roots of *ixia*, *gladioli*, *antholyzae*, and *irides*, often grows to the size of a rabbit, and by some is esteemed good eating. There is another species of the animal, called by the Dutch Bles-moll, which inhabits the hard ground; but seldom exceeds the size of the common European mole. This country is furnished with a great variety of elegant shrubs; viz. *enista*, *partia*, and *afpalathi*. At night we came to Lange Valley, where we took up our lodging in a desolate place, the inhabitants being all removed; for this is only their winter residence, when the water is fresh, which had now began to be brackish. 24th, We set out early in the morning, expecting to find a river or fountain, where we could rest during the heat of the day; but, to our no small disappointment, we travelled till noon without finding any: our oxen were so hot that their tongues hung out of their mouths. About one o'clock we saw a lake of water at some distance, but on our arrival our horses refused to drink: we dismounted, and found it to be a salt lake. In the evening we came to a fountain of excellent water, where we spent the night with great comfort. Next morning we were visited by a peasant going to the Cape; who told us, he had been attacked in the night by a lion, which made a spring at his Hottentot who led the oxen, but happily missed him. He admonished us to be expeditious, and get to some habitation that night, otherwise we might expect a visit from him. Vol. LXVI. R r 25th, 25th, At noon we proceeded on our journey, the road continuing still very bad; and in passing along we saw the prints of the lion's feet in several places. At night we came to Olyfant's Rivier, where we found a Dutch habitation; there we rested several days, being treated with great hospitality. This country abounds with game. They have two kinds of partridges, which are exceedingly plentiful and easy to shoot; and a person cannot walk ten paces without raising a brace of quails. Their hares are of an extraordinary size, but differ little otherwise in character from those of Europe. We hunted every day, and by the assistance of the peasant's son, who was an excellent marksman, never failed to come home loaded. The sterile appearance of this country exceeds all imagination: wherever one casts his eyes, he sees nothing but naked hills, without a blade of grass, only small succulent plants. The soil is a red binding loam, intermixed with a kind of rotten schijtus or flate. Next morning we traversed the adjacent hills, and were surprized to find all the plants entirely new to us. They were the greatest part of the succulent kind; viz. mesembryanthemum, euphorbia, and stapelia, of which we found many new species. The peasant told us, that in winter the hills were painted with all kind of colours; and said, it grieved him often, that no person of knowledge in botany had ever had an opportunity of seeing his country in the flowery season. We expressed great surprize at seeing such large flocks of sheep as he was possessed of subsist in such a desert; on which he observed, that their sheep never ate any grass, only succulent plants, and all sorts of shrubs; many of which were aromatic, and gave their flesh an excellent flavour. Next day I passed through a large flock of sheep, where I saw them devouring the juicy leaves of *mesembryanthemum*, *stapelia*, *cotyledon*, and even the green seed vessels of *euphorbia*; by eating such plants they require little water, especially in winter. 30th, We were employed in unloading our waggons, and transporting our baggage across the river in a small boat; and afterwards drove over our oxen with the empty waggons, which were almost overfed in the middle of it. The river is about forty or fifty yards broad, and in some places very deep. The borders are covered with the *mimosa nilotica*, which forms a thick impenetrable wood. We were about a day's journey from the mouth of this river, where are still some elephants remaining, the country being very wild and uninhabited. We had now the great Carro to pass; a desert of three days journey, where no fresh water, and only three pits of brackish water, enough to preserve the lives of our cattle, were to be found. These pits are at some distance from the road, which makes it very difficult for strangers to find them. But while we were seriously considering these approaching difficulties, thinking, if we should miss the pits, we should probably perish in this inhospitable desert, to our great joy we were overtaken by a Boor, with his wife and children, who were going the same road; but he having a fresh team of horses, we could not keep up with him. R r 2 However, However, he directed us in the way; and told us, he would tye a piece of white cloth on a branch of a tree, where he knew there was water; but desired us not to go to those places without fire-arms, as there was commonly a lion lurking near them; who knowing that all the animals must come there to drink, he seldom failed to seize his prey. At night we overtook our fellow traveller, who had taken up his lodging on a bare eminence, without a bush to shelter him; though at some distance there was a small wood of *mimosa* trees along the banks of a river that was then dry, which we thought much preferable to his situation. But he told us, it was much more dangerous on account of wild beasts; and that there often fell such sudden showers in the mountains, that people who had lodged by the rivers, had, with their waggons and oxen, been carried away in the night while they lay asleep. He left us early next morning, but we were obliged to stay till noon to let our oxen feed, and then went on until sun-set; but unhappily found no water, which mortified us much, having a long day's journey to the next watering place. All next day we travelled over this thirsty land, where we suffered from the heat of the Sun and want of water; but our sufferings were still aggravated when we thought on our poor animals, who often lay down in the yoke during the heat of the day. This defart is extensive; being bounded on the N. and N.E. by a chain of flat mountains, called Bockland's Bergen (Bockland's Mountains) and on the W. and N.W. by the Atlantic Ocean. It It is uninhabitable in summer; but in winter, or during the rainy season, the Bockland people come down with their herds, which by feeding upon succulent shrubs, that are very salt, in a short time grow remarkably fat. There still remains a great treasure of new plants in this country, especially of the succulent kind, which cannot be preserved but by having good figures and descriptions of them made on the spot; which might be easily accomplished in the rainy season, when there is plenty of fresh water everywhere. But at this season of the year, we were obliged to make the greatest expedition to save the lives of our cattle, only collecting what we found growing along the road side, which amounted to above 100 plants, never before described. Towards the evening we arrived at the foot of Bockland's Berg, where we passed the night by a penurious stream of fresh water, but which yielded us no small comfort. Nov. 2d, The peasant who had passed us in the Carro, as soon as he arrived at home, immediately sent two team of fresh oxen to help us up the mountain, our own being much weakened by the heavy roads. In the cool of the afternoon we ascended by a winding road, which was so very rugged and steep, that it took five hottentots with ropes made fast to the waggon to keep it from overturning. The face of the mountain consists entirely of scattered rock, being accessible only in this place, and is overgrown with a great variety of large woody plants, most of which were new. We found a new species of aloe here, called by the Dutch Koker Boom, Boom, of which the Hottentots make quivers to hold their arrows; it being of a soft fibrous consistence, which they can easily cut out, leaving only the bark, which is hard and durable. These trees were about twelve feet high, with a strait smooth trunk, about ten inches or a foot diameter and five or six feet in length, which divided into two branches; and those were again sub-divided into two more branches, which terminated in a bunch of thick succulent leaves surrounding the stem, spear-shaped, entire, without spines, and hanging down like the leaves of *dracæna draco*. We did not see it in flower, but by the above characters took it for a new species, and called it *aloe dichotoma*. We gained the top of the mountain, and entered into Bockland, which is extended along the summit for many miles. It is pretty level, but very rocky. We enjoyed a pure cool air, it being several degrees colder here than in the Carro. Bockland lies nearly in a Northern direction from the Cape, and at the distance of about 220 miles. It was called Bockland on account of the amazing quantity of spring bucks which were formerly found there; but since this country has been inhabited by Europeans, it has ceased to be the settled residence; at least, the number of those which constantly remain in it is very inconsiderable. It generally happens, however, once in seven or eight years, that flocks of many hundred thousands come out of the interior parts of Africa, spreading over the whole country, and not leaving a blade of grass or a shrub. The peasants are then obliged to guard their corn fields night and day, otherwise those animals would cause a famine wherever they passed. passed. It seems probable, by the accounts of these extraordinary emigrations, that their natural habitation is in the interior parts of Terra de Natal; and that they are forced Southwards by dry seasons, which happen sometimes in those regions to such a degree, that not a drop of rain will fall for two or three years together. These great flocks are said to be always attended by lions; and it is observed, where a lion is, there is a large open space. We saw several flocks, but not exceeding twenty in each. We met a party of Dutchmen, who had been about 150 miles to the Northward of Bockland, destroying the Boschman Hottentots. They informed us, they had seen great flocks of the spring bucks; but there happening much rain, which had recovered the grass and vegetation, they had been observed to change their course, and return to the interior parts of the country. 3d, 4th, We continued our journey along this elevated tract; having on our right hand, or South-side, the precipice, which is inaccessible; and on the North-side, a defoliate hilly country, inhabited by a few wandering tribes of the Boschman Hottentots. At night we came to the place of our benefactor, whose name was KLAAS LOSPER; he was a very opulent man in those parts, having upwards of 12000 sheep and 3000 bullocks. Most of the plants that we collected here were new; and, I believe, many more remain, this having been the dry season, when most of the flowers were gone. 6th, We directed our course Northward, through a dry, barren country, called Hantum; and on the 10th came came to the last Dutch habitation on this side of the country. As we passed along we found many new plants growing near the banks of rivers, which were then quite dry; but the soil consisted of nothing but rotten rock. The hills were of the same substance, all of a conical figure, and entirely covered with pieces of rock, about the size of a man's fist. We continued several days at this habitation, where we were well entertained. They had excellent bread, good mutton, butter and milk, but no kind of strong liquors. We made several enquiries about the country lying to the Northward; and were told, that it had been formerly inhabited by Europeans near a hundred miles further, who at first had greatly increased their herds; but that some dry seasons coming on afterwards, they had been forced to return: the country therefore was supposed to be uninhabited, except by the wandering Hottentots, who seldom stay above a month in a place. This place is about 350 English miles North from the Cape of Good Hope. We now changed our course, going directly S.E. through an uninhabited country much like the former, surrounded by high mountains, flat on the tops, and forming what the peasants call Table Mountains. I never saw the smallest rivulet or fountain issuing from them; all the water that we found being that which was left stagnant in the deepest parts of the rivers, that are formed by the rain in the winter season, which rivers, towards Midsummer, in other places become entirely dry. 14th, To Rhinoceros Rivier. Here we saw great herds of zebras, and were informed by three Dutchmen, who passed us on horseback, that this place was fre- quented by a large lion; and, as a proof, they shewed us a zebra, which he had lately killed; assuring us, if we stayed all night there, he would pay us a visit. We travelled about ten miles further, and at night saw a flock of sheep and some bullocks, which greatly animated us, expecting to find some habitation where we might shelter ourselves during the night; but, when we came to the place where the sheep were, we found a Dutchman with his wife and several young children sitting under the shelter of some bushes, which they had formed into an alcove, to screen them from the heat of the Sun. We stayed here all night, and the man asked us to sup with them; which we did, and made them a present of some tea and tobacco, which they thankfully received; and the next day the husband saddled his horse, rode six or seven miles with us, and gave us very good directions how to proceed in our intended course. 16th, We ascended a flat chain of mountains, called Rogge Velds Berg, where we found the road extremely rugged. Rogge Veld extends along the summit of a high ridge of mountains, running obliquely across the country for several hundred miles. It is very arid, except in some vallies, where the Dutch peasants have their habitations; but the general face of the country is rock. The soil is a red ochre loam; it binds very hard in summer, and is in most places salt, which causes bad water. There is not a tree in the whole country, unless we should so call a few miserable shrubs, and of these the largest not exceeding exceeding two feet in height. The air is very sharp, and in winter they have frost and snow for several months, which obliges the Boors to remove, with all their flocks and herds, down to the Carro, or lower desarts, where they spend the winter; and at that time have plenty of fresh water, and all the shrubs green, which afford food for their cattle. They remove down in the beginning of May, when they have sown their corn, and return about the latter end of October, when the low country becomes parched, and the water turns salt, or is entirely dried up. All the game and ferocious animals observe the same removes. The ancient inhabitants of this country, called by the Dutch Boschmenschen, are a savage people and very thievish; often carrying off 700 sheep at a time, and killing their shepherds. They use bows and arrows, and poison the arrows with the venom of serpents mixed with the juice of a species of *euphorbia*, which we had no opportunity of seeing. These Hottentots have neither flocks or herds, nor any fixed habitation, nor even skins to cover them; but live in the cavities of rocks, like baboons. Their common food is roots of plants, many of which we have not been able to discover. They eat snakes, lizards, scorpions, and all kind of reptiles. There is a caterpillar which produces a very large moth, and is found commonly on the *mimosa nilotica*. These are found in great plenty, often stripping the trees of all their leaves, and of them the Hottentots make many a delicious meal. They also eat the eggs eggs of a large species of ant, which they dig out of the ground in great quantities, washing them in water, and afterwards boiling them. They are commonly called Hottentot's rice. This is an excellent country for sheep; but the inhabitants breed few oxen, and those only for their own use. We found few plants here; but those we found were all new. I did not see an erica or protea in the whole country. 22d, The ground was white with frost, and the wind sharp. At first we proposed to continue our journey along the top of these mountains to the N.E. extremity; but our waggons were so thaken by the ruggedness of the road, and our horses and oxen so tender-footed, that they became unserviceable, and we were obliged to drive them loose a great part of the way home. Dec. 2d, We thought of descending the mountain, and directing our course to the Cape; but it blew a violent storm, and was extremely cold. The next morning the ground was white with frost, and there was ice upon the pools as thick as a crown piece. This alarmed the peasants, their wheat being then in blossom, which they expected would be entirely destroyed: a circumstance that often happens in this country. 3d, We were furnished with fresh oxen, and several Hottentots, who, with long thongs of leather fixed to the upper part of our waggons, kept them from overturning, while we were obliged to make both the hind wheels wheels fast with an iron chain to retard their motion. After two hours and a half employed in hard labour, sometimes pulling on one side, sometimes on the other, and sometimes all obliged to hang on with our whole strength behind the waggon, to keep it from running over the oxen, we arrived at the foot of the mountain, where we found the heat more troublesome than the cold had been on the top. We now entered a large division of the Carro which lies along the foot of the Rogge Veld's Mountains, being a desert of four days journey, with no more than three pits of brackish water to be found in all that extent, which was at this season forsaken by every living creature; but in winter it is the habitation of the Rogge Veld Boors, as I observed before. 5th, To Unlucky River, called so from a man having been there formerly devoured by a lion. We remained here a day to rest our oxen, having found a pit with brackish water, and some reeds, which the oxen devoured with greediness. 8th, About eleven o'clock at night we got clear of the desert, and arrived at the foot of the Bocke Velde mountains, where we lodged by a rivulet of pure fresh water; and we spent the remainder of that night and part of next day in great luxury. 11th, To Verkeerde Valley, where we rested three days, having found good pasture for our oxen, and a large lake of fresh water, well stocked with water-fowl. We lived lived on wild ducks and snipes, though the fields abounded also with korhaans (a kind of bustard), partridges, hares, &c. and great flocks of ostriches. 15th, To Hexen Rivier, which runs along a narrow passage through the great chain of mountains, between Rood Land and Zwellingdam. This valley is inclosed on each side with impassable mountains, whose tops were still covered with snow. There are several very genteel habitations in it, where we got some wine and excellent fruit. We found many rare plants on the sides of these lofty mountains; and, I believe, there still remain many more entirely unknown to us. 18th, To Breede Rivier (Broad River). 22d, To Rood Land. 26th, To Paarde Berg. 28th, To the Cape Town.