An Account of the Moorish Way of Dressing Their Meat (with Other Remarks) in West Barbary, from Cape Spartel to Cape de Geer. By Mr. Jezreel Jones

III. An Account of the Moorish Way of Dressing their Meat (with other Remarks) in West Barbary, from Cape Spartel to Cape de Geer. By Mr. Fezreel Jones. The Mauritanian or Barbarian Moor, when he rises in the Morning, washes himself all over, and dresses, then goes to their Jlama, or Church, says his Prayers, and returns home, where his Wife, Concubine, or Slave, hath his Breakfast provided for him, which is sometimes made of Barley or Wheat-Gruel; for I have known both. It is made somewhat thicker than ours, till it be ropy; they put Origan, and other Herbs, powder'd, into it, which for such uses they keep dry'd all the Year; some will put a little Pepper, and other Spice. I have often been treated with warm Bread, fresh Butter, and Honey, in a Morning, which is not seldom used amongst themselves, an Hour or two after they have had Gruel; as also Hasty-Pudding, with Butter, and sometimes Butter and Honey, (as the Guests are, and according to the Ability of the Entertainers.) Some again give Cuscusoo, with Milk, others with Flesh, a third with Roots. It is to be observed, when any one hath a Guest or Guests in his House, the Neighbours bring their Dish to welcome him or them, on account of the Respect and Love they bear to their Neighbour, as well as to shew their Readiness to entertain the Stranger. This Practice is found constantly used throughout the whole Country amongst the Moors, one towards another, reciprocally. And I have as often found the like Civility, as I had occasion to take up my Lodging at any Place, where I was acquainted with any of the Inhabitants. Inhabitants. The Jews likewise shew great Civility to any Christian, and treat him with what they have, as stew'd or baked Hens, Capons, hard Eggs boil'd or roast-ed, which they press flat with Pepper, and Salt, Wine, Brandy, &c. They have generally the best Bread, and every thing else of the kind that they can get. They put Annis, and two or three other sorts of Seeds in their Bread; one is black and angled, taste almost like Carrot-seeds, and I think I have seen these sometimes used in Bread in Spain; I know not the Names of the other Seeds in English, nor any Language but Arabick. They esteem Honey as a wholesome Breakfast, and the most delicious that which is in the Comb, with the young Bees in it, before they come out of their Cases, whilst they still look Milk-white, and resemble (being taken out) Gentles, such as Fishers use: These I have often eat of, but they seem'd insipid to my Palate, and sometimes I found they gave me the Heart-burn. In Suse I had a Bag of Honey brought by a Friend who made a Present of it, as being of great Esteem, and such as they present to Men of greatest Note amongst them. This, he told me, I was to eat a little of every Morning, to the quantity of a Walnut; it was thick as Venice Treacle, and full of small Seeds. I used to breakfast on it for several Days together, taking the said quantity at a time; it always made me sleepy, but I found myself well, and in very good temper of Body after it. The Seeds were about the bigness of Mustard, and, according to the Description of them to me, and the Effects I found by eating the Honey and them, they must be a large sort of Poppy-seed. The Honey was of that sort they call in Suse, Izucanee, or Origanum, which (the Bees feed on, and) these Seeds were mixed with. Cuscus, or Cuskfoo, is the principal Dish amongst them, as the Olla is in Spain: This is made of Flower of Wheat, and when that is scarce, of Barley, Millet, Indian Corn, &c. They shake some Flower into an earthen Pan, made on purpose, which is not glazed, sprinkling a little Water on the bottom of the Pan first, and then working it with both their open Hands flat, turning them backwards and forwards to grain it, till they make it much resembling Sago, which comes from the East Indies. They stew their Flesh, keeping their Pots close covered, which are made of Earth, put the Cuskfoo into an earthen Cullender, which they call Caskass. B vid. Fig and this Cullender into the Mouth of the Pot, C. that so all the Steam which arises from the Meat may be imbibed by the Cuskfoo, which causes it to swell, and make it fit to be eaten: When it is enough, for they love every thing thoroughly done, they put this Cuskfoo out into the Dish they serve it up in, which is somewhat like D. and the Cuskfoo being heaped up, they make (as it were) a Bed or Place for the Meat to lie in, then they put good store of Spice, as Ginger, Pepper, Saffron, &c. This Dish is set upon a Mat on the Ground, and four Men may easily sit about it, tho' I have seen six and more at one Dish; they sit with their Buttocks upon the Calves of their Legs, with the bottom of their Feet on the Ground. If there are many to eat at this Meal, there are more Dishes. This Dish they have in use sometimes at Breakfast, as well as Dinner and Supper, but it is commonly used for the two last Meals. They cover it with a thing made on purpose, somewhat like E. and it will keep hot enough two Hours. At a stately Entertainment they will have a Sheep roasted whole, sometimes a half, or a quarter, on a wooden Spit, or the most convenient thing they can find. They do not continually keep turning it, as we do, but leisurely let one side be almost roasted before they turn the other. The Fire is commonly of Wood burnt to clear Coal, and made so, that the Heat ascends to the Meat. They baste it with Oil, and a little Water and Salt incorporated. They let it be thoroughly roasted; then they say, *Bismiillah*, In the Name of God, after they have washed their Right Hands, and pulling the Meat in pieces, they fall to eating. It is to be noted, that they never use but their Right Hand in eating, and one holds whilst the other pulls it asunder, distributing the pieces to the rest, as he pulls it off. They seldom use a Knife, and a Fork is a strange thing amongst them. They are dextrous at this way of carving, and never flinch at the heat or warmth, for that would look mean, and might occasion one more bold to take his Office upon him to perform. When they have done, they lick their Fingers, and as often as they have a hot Dish, they wash their Hands afresh. Then they have *Alfdoufh*, or *Virmizzelli*, with some Meat on it, stew'd Meat, well spiced, with savoury Broth; which, after they have eat the Meat, they dip their Bread in the Sauce, or Broth, and eat it. They are cleanly in their Cookery, and if a Hair be found it is a capital Crime, but a Fly not, because it has Wings, and may get in after it passes from the Cook's Charge or Management; to be well and strongly seasoned is no great Fault; and if one should say 'tis too high of Pepper, they'll reply, It is better to be *Ab* than *Faugh*; alluding to the Differences between a strong, high, or hot, and savoury Taste, and an insipid, watry, or unpleasant. *Cubbob* is small pieces of Mutton, with the Cawl of a Sheep wrapped on them. Some make good *Cobbob* of the Liver, Lights, and Heart. They Pepper and Salt them, and put Sweet Herbs and Saffron into them, then roast them, and when they dish them up, up, squeeze an Orange or two on them. Thus they use commonly in their stewed Meats, Lemon and Orange for Roast or Fish. Elmorofia is another: This is pieces of Beef, of Cow or Camel, stew'd with Butter, Honey, and Water; some will put Rob of Wine amongst it; they add Saffron, Garlick, or Onions, a little Salt, and when 'tis enough, serve it up. They esteem this a delicious Dish, used mostly in the Winter, and say it is good against Colds, notwithstanding they say Beef is cooler than Mutton. They have a piece of good Houlewisery for a ready Dish, which is likewise appropriated to the Winter Season; and this I will give an Account of before I have done. Then they will treat you with Hare stew'd, stewed and roasted Hens and Partridges: These they disjoint, and let stew in Water, and Oil, or Butter, if they are not fat enough of themselves. When they are almost enough, they beat a couple of Eggs, mix them with the Liquor, with Juice of Lemon or Vinegar, which they usually have very good, and serve it up. Then you may have more baked and roast, and another Dish of stew'd Meat, which for its Goodness would be esteem'd amongst us: They take a Leg of Mutton, cut off the flaky part, leave out the Skin and Sinews. This Flesh they mince very fine (with two Knives, one in each Hand) by holding them across, which they manage with great Dexterity; they also mince some Suet, Parsley, Thyme, Mint, &c. Then they take Pepper, Salt, and Saffron beaten together, and some Nutmeg; all these they add to the rest, with about half a handful of Rice; they cut an Onion of the best sort, half through, and take off the first Lay, as not so fit for use, unless it be thick. (They that are curious take out the inner Skin, saying it is not wholesome, and bad for the Eyes.) Eyes, it being the worst thing in an Onion, which otherwise would be the best of Roots.) This Lay they fill with forc'd Meat, then the next, and so on, which makes them look like so many Onions; some they put up in Vine leaves of the best they can find for their purpose. Whilst this is doing, the Bones and Residue of the Leg of Mutton, being in moderate pieces, are stewing, with as much Water as will just cover them; then they put on their forc'd Meat Balls atop of the Meat, and a green Bunch of Grapes upon them, cover it, and let it boil till thoroughly enough. This, I think, is one of their best Dishes, which they often use in Fezz and other Cities. Pillowe, or Pilôe, is a Dish very well known, made with Rice boiled, with a good Hen, Mutton, and Spice, the Flesh and Fowl being put on the Rice in a Dish, as Cuskfoo, and so served up. A Bustard, which they roast and stew, and make an excellent Dith of its Guts, I eat of it once; to me seemed very pleasant and savoury, and very grateful to the Stomack. This Bird is fit for their King's Table, as likewise the Hedgehog, of which I will give an Account anon. Then they have Ragous, made with Sparrows, Pigeons, &c. Their Drink is plain Water, or Milk, and sometimes Rob of Wine mixed with Water. I was once treated with this by the Bashaw of Sufi, Abdolmeleck ben Alchotib, and there was brought to me a great Bowl which held above three Quarts; he told me there was not above half a Pint of this Rob in it, and the rest was filled up with Water. It was very generous and pleasant, and tho' I did not drink a quarter of it, yet I found the Strength in half an Hour. This they say is a Remedy against Cold likewise, and pretend to take it medicinally; tho' Rob of Grapes is lawful according to their * Law. Under this Pretext, many Fezze Merchants,* Alcoran. to make Rob, or Vinegar, press all the Grapes in their Vineyards, put it up in great Jars, under Ground, and keep it long, so that it proves excellent Wine. When four or five merry Companions, with every one his Mistress, appoint to be merry, they go out to their Vineyard or Garden, have Musick, and all or most of these Dishes, and there sit and carouse over a great earthen Bowl full of Wine, of about four or five Gallons, and so drink round in a Cup that will hold almost a Pint, like a large Tea-Dish, till there is none left; it often happens that they do not part till they have made an end of the whole Jar, which seldom is less than a Week's time. I have known some that have been nine Days successively drunk; those that are known to drink Wine, or pits standing, their Testimony will not be valid in Law. In a Morning, during this time of Merriment, they are for some savoury Bit, Pickled Fish, or Escaveche, or Elchole. They are great Lovers of Fish, and have as great Variety, and very good, which they fry in Organ Oil, stew, roast, and bake, with good store of Spice, Onions, Garlick, Cummin, Parsly, and Coriander. The Escaveche, or fry'd Fish, is cut in thin slices, and put into Vinegar, with the aforesaid Spices, adding Saffron and Pepper, &c. It will keep above a Month, and this they have commonly, as also pickled Limes, Olives, Capers, &c. They eat parched Garavanças, parched Almonds, and Beans, which they parch in a Pan with Water and Salt. These, and other things, they have to relish their Glass of Wine, or give them a fresh Appetite to drink. They say, to cure the ill Effects of a drunken Bout, is, to take a swinging Cup of the same Liquor, which invites them to more, and so on. But I have left some Dishes, by this Digression, to give an Account of their extravagant Mirth. The Hedgehog is a Princely Dish amongst them, and before they kill him, rub his Back against the Ground, by holding its Feet betwixt two, as Men do a Saw that saws Stones, till it has done squeaking; then they cut its Throat, and with a Knife cut off all its Spines and singe it. They take out its Guts, stuff the Body with some Rice, sweet Herbs, Garavancas, Spice, and Onions; they put some Butter and Garavancas into the Water they stew it in, and let it stew in a little Pot, close stopped, till it is enough, and it proves an excellent Dish. The Moors do not care to kill Lamb, Veal, nor Kid, saying it is a Pity to part the Suckling from its Dam. They eat with their boiled Meat, many times, Carrots, Turnips of two or three sorts, Cabbage, Beans, and Pease, &c. which they have plenty, and very good. I have eat of Porcupine stewed, which much resembled Camels Flesh in Taste, and that is the nearest to Beef of anything I know. I come now to give an Account of the Alcholea: It is made of Beef, Mutton, or Camel’s Flesh, but chiefly Beef, which they cut all in long slices, salt it well, and let it lie twenty four Hours in the Pickle. Then they remove it out of those Tubs, or Jars, into others with Water, and when it has lain a Night, they take it out, and put it on Roaps in the Sun and Air to dry; when it is thoroughly dry’d, and hard, they cut it into pieces of two or three Inches long, and throw it into a Pan, or Cauldron, which is ready, with boiling Oil and Suet, sufficient to hold it, where it boils till it be very clear and red, if one cuts it, which, taken out, they set to drain: When all is thus done, it stands till cool, and Jars are prepared to pot it up in, pouring the Liquor they fried it in upon it, and as soon as it is thoroughly cold they stop it up close. It will keep two Years, it will be hard, and the hardest they look on to be best done. This they dish up cold, sometimes fry'd with Eggs and Garlick, sometimes stew'd, and Lemon squeez'd on it. It is very good any way, either hot or cold. Before I conclude, I willingly give an Account of their Travelling-Provision, viz. Bread, Almonds, Raisons, Figs, hard Eggs, cold Fowl, &c. But what is most used by Travellers, is Zumeet, Tumeet, or Flower of parched Barley for Limereece. These are not Arabian but Shilha Names; so I believe it is of a longer standing than the Mahometans in that Part of Africk. They are all three made of parched Barley Flower, which they carry in a Leather Satchel. Zumeet is the Flower mixed with Honey, Butter, and Spice; Tumeet is the same Flower done up with Organ Oil; and Limereece is only mixed with Water, and so drank: This quenches Thirst much better than Water alone, satisfies a hungry Appetite, cools and refreshes tired and weary'd Spirits, overcoming those ill Effects a hot Sun and fatiguing Journey might occasion. This amongst the Mountaineers of Suse is used for their Diet as well at Home as on their Journey. All things taken in Game, as Hawking, Hunting, and Fowling, are lawful for them to eat, if they take it before it be dead, so that they can have time to cut its Throat, and say, Bismiillah; or if he is known to be an expert Man at the Game, and says those Words before he lets the Hawk take its Flight, lets slip the Greyhound, or fires his Gun, it is lawful; all (I say, but Swine's Flesh, and what dies of itself) they have Liberty to eat, and may sell it. They tell us there is but one Part about the Hog or Swine that is unlawful, which they do not know, and are obliged to abstain from the Whole; but if they knew it, they would let us have but little to our share. They eat Snails boil'd with Salt, and praise their Wholsomness. Fish of all sorts forts, are lawful. In Taffilet and Dra most of their Food is Dates, there are ten or a dozen sorts. They have good Capons all the Country over; no Turkeys, Ducks, nor Geese, but wild, and those they have of two sorts; Duck, Teil, and Mallard, Corlews, Plovers, Snipes, Oxbirds, Pipers, a sort of a black Crow, with a bald Pate, and long crooked Bill, is good Meat, and a hundred other sort of Fowl. I have eat Antelope, which we have killed in hunting, and are very good Food. They are as large as a Goat, of a Chesnut Colour, and white under the Belly; their Horns are almost quite straight from their Head up, tapering gradually, with Rings at a distance from one another, till within an Inch and a half of the top; fine large black Eyes, long and slender Neck, Feet, Legs, and Body, shaped somewhat like a Deer; they have two Cavities between their Legs, I think the Male as well as the Female. I have sent of these Antelopes alive to England. There are many in a Herd, when at the same time they have Scouts, or those who by running give 'em notice of an approaching Foe. When two lie down together, they lay themselves so, that their Backs are towards each other, and the Head of one towards the Tail of the other, that they may see every way. Their Dung is sweet and pleasant enough. They are taken sometimes by the Hawk, sometimes by the Shot; for they are too swift for a Greyhound. Partridges in Sus commonly roost on Trees; there are so many Foxes which would otherwise destroy them. And here I should make mention of another Dish: The Moors will eat Fox, if it be fat, either stewed or roasted, but they do not care for it lean, which has occasioned a Proverb amongst them on that Account, to wit, Hellel deeb, harom deeb; alluding to the Scruple might be made of its lawfulness. Those Words signify, a Fox is lawful, and a Fox is unlawful; i.e. Fat, Lawful; Lean, Unlawful. Fruits and Sweet-meats they have of many kinds, as of three or four sorts of Pumpkins, Macaroons, Almonds prepared many ways, Raisins, Dates, Figs dry and green, excellent Melons of two or three sorts, and thereabouts. * Grapes in Pears, Apricocks, Peaches, Mulberries white and black, known as big Plumbs, and Damascens, Cherries, * Grapes of many kinds, and very good, and if they would assist Nature, do not make every thing in Perfection. Their Salating is Lettuce, Endive, Carduus, Parsley, Apium, and other sweet Herbs, Onions, Cucumbers of several kinds, some about a Yard in length, and two or three Inches thick, and hairy, (this is esteemed the wholesomest) Radishes, Fumatas, or Apples of Love, all which they will cut, and put Oil, Vinegar, and Salt, with some red Pepper: This Salate they eat with Bread. They have a Fruit called Baranêên, in Spain, Baragenas; these they stew with their Viçuals, and sometimes cut them in thin slices, and fry them; it makes a pretty Dish. When the Moors have feasted, every one washes his Hands and Mouth, thanks God, and blesses the Hosts and Entertainers from whom they had it; they talk a little, or tell some Story, and then lie down to rest, where I shall leave them at present, and do beg your Pardon for so tiresome and frivolous a Discourse.