An Extract of the Journals of Two Several Voyages of the English Merchants of the Factory of Aleppo, to Tadmor, Anciently Call'd Palmyra

II. An Extract of the Journals of two several Voyages of the English Merchants of the Factory of Aleppo, to Tadmor, anciently call'd Palmyra. OUR Merchants of this worthy Factory, being generally Men of more than ordinary Birth and Education, have not been wanting (as the intervals of leisure from their gainful Traffick would permit) to make Voyages of Curiosity, to visit the celebrated Remains of Antiquity in those Parts, whereby the once flourishing State of the World, under the Roman Empire, is abundantly evinced. And being inform'd by the Natives, that the Ruins of the City of Tadmor were more considerable than any they had yet seen, they were tempted to enterprize this hazardous and painful Voyage over the Desart; but having been, by the perfidy of the Arabs, disappointed of their Desires in their first Attempt, they were obliged to defer their Curiosity, till they could better provide for their Security: whereof being assured, from the confidence some of them had in the Friendship of Assyne then King of the Arabs, they adventured again, in the Year 1691, and had full liberty to visit, observe and transcribe what they pleased. What Account they there took, the Publick has already seen in Our Last, Numb. 217; since which, by the Favour of Mr. Timothy Lanoy, and Mr. Aaron Goodyear, two very Eminent Merchants, who were both in the first Voyage, we have receiv'd not only the Draught of the Prospect of those noble Ruins, taken upon the Place, (of which we here give a Copy,) but also the Journals of both the Voyages; which, for the Satisfaction of the Curious, we have thought fit to publish. The First Voyage, Anno 1678. July 18, at Five in the Morning, we set out from Aleppo, being sixteen English; but with Servants and Mulettiers in all forty; and in four hours and an half, travelling South by East, we arrived at a Village call'd Cafferabite, being at the edge of the Desert, here we reposed the rest of that day. July 19th, we rose at One in the Morning, and directed our course S. S. E. over the Desert, for a Fountain call'd Churraick; but our Guide losing his Way, there being no Path, 'twas near Noon before we found it: which made us doubt of our Safety. This Well has no Signs near it to discover it by. Here we pitcht our Tents, and refreshed ourselves and Horses; and the Water being of a Purgative Quality, made us some Diversion. In our way, we found two Arabs with two Asses, one whereof carry'd Water and a little Bread, the other they rode on by turns; they had one Gun, with which they shot Gazels, the Bullet being a hard Stone broken round, and cased with Lead; they had on the Palms of their Hands, Elbows, Knees and Feet, some Gazel-skin tied, that they may be able to creep the better on the Ground, to shoot; one of the Asses walking by as a Stalking-horse, and the Arab imitating the cry of the Gazel till he get within shot: These Arabs are called Selebee. At the Well came to us some Arabs that were making Ashes of the ordinary sort of Weeds call'd Chuddraife, Ruggot and Cuttaff; these they cut and dry, and putting them into a Pit, set fire to them, and the Ashes cake at the bottom. The Ashes they carry to Eglib and Tripoli, to make Soap of: But the best sort of Ashes are made of the Weed Shinon, which grows about Tadmor, Soukny, Tibi, and Tarecca; it grows like Broom in England, and in shape resembles Coral. July 20, we rose at four in the morning, and travelling two hours E. S. E. we arrived at Andrene, where we found the Ruins of two or three Churches, and of a great Town lying in a large Plain; where having tarried about an hour and an half, and taken some fragments of Greek Inscriptions, which afforded no certain fence, but yet were evidently Christian, we march'd again S. by E. and in about four hours time came to a pleasant Aqueduct call'd Sheck-alal; this Aqueduct is cut through the main Rock, for a great way from the Mountains; and where it ends, the Arabs have made a Garden, which afforded us Melons, Cucumbers, Purslain, &c. In a Grott hard by, there dwelt an Arab with his Family; he had a dozen Buffalo's, which they used both for their Milk, and to plow the Ground, sowing both Wheat and Barley: hither the Arabs resort, when they have committed any Robbery about Aleppo, or Hama, and here they repose, and divide the Spoil. July 21, we rose at four in the morning, and riding two hours South, we came to a Ruine call'd Briadeen; here we found the following Inscription on a Stone, good part in the Ground: ΑΦΙΕΡΩΘΗ ΑΛΙΤΝΔΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΑΜΦΕΤΟΥC ΔΙΑ ΜΑΤΕΡΝΟΤ ΚΑ(Ι Π)ΑΠΠΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΑΙΚΟΤ ΚΝΕΤΜΝ From hence going South-East, in four hours more we came to a Well called Costal (which signifies a Spring in Arab.) Most part of our way through the Desert we were troubled with Rat-holes in great numbers, like Coney-boroughs, which by the sinking in of the Earth, very much incommoded our Horses and Mules. These Rats have at the ends of their Tails a bush of Hair, and the Arabs eat them all, excepting one part. From this Well we arose about four in the Afternoon, and began to ascend ascend small Hills, covered with Trees, which, for the most part, were the small Pistachos which the Arabs pickle with Salt; but eaten green, are good to quench thirst. We travelled on three hours up the Hills, where we pitcht that night, having no other Water but what we carry'd with us; and at Night we had a small shower of Rain, a thing unusual in that Country at that time of the year. July 22, We rose by Two in the Morning, and travelling E. S. E. we came by Eleven to a Well call'd Ghor, where we found it very hot, and saw several prints of Horses Feet, so that we suspected some Arabs had newly past that way: July 23, We rose by One in the Morning, and travelling most East, we came to a large Plain, where we saw before us, on a high Mountain, a great Castle, call'd by the Arabs Anture. When we had travelled two or three hours in this Plain, we espied an Arab driving towards us a Camel, with his Launce, so fast, that he came on a round gallop, and we supposed him sent as a Spy: being come up to us, he told us he was of Tadmor, and that his Prince, the Emir Melkam, had that day made Friendship with Hamet Shideed another Prince, and that together they had four hundred Men; so he kept us company an hour or two, and enquired of our Muletters if we were not Turks disguised, with intent to seize on Melkam; for we travelled with a Bandiero, the Imprefs being a Hanjarr or Turkish Dagger, and a Half-Moon. We told him we were Franks, which he could hardly believe, wondering that we travelled thus in the Desert, only out of Curiosity. Being come near to Tadmor, he went a little before us, and on a sudden run full speed towards the Ruines, we not endeavouring to hinder him. Our Guide told us he was gone to acquaint the Arabs who we were, and that we ought to suspect and prepare for the worst; so we dismounted twenty of our Servants, Servants, each having a long Gun, and Pistols at his Girdle, and placed them abreast before us: we following at a little distance behind, on Horse-back, with Carbines and Pistols. In this order we proceeded, and came to a most stately Aqueduct which runs under Ground in a direct passage five Miles, and is covered with an Arch of Bastard Marble all the way, and a path on both sides the Channel for two Persons to walk abreast; the Channel itself being about an English Yard in breadth, and \(\frac{1}{4}\) of a Yard in depth. At 20 Yards distance all the way are Ventiducts for the Air to pass, and the holes are surrounded with small mounts of Earth to keep the Sand and Dust from falling down. We Marched close by these Mounts, which might serve us for defence, expecting every moment that the Arabs would come to assail us, having the disadvantage of Sun and Wind in our Faces: wherefore we Travelled hard to gain an Eminence where we might post ourselves advantageously, and stop and repose a little, to consider what we had to do. The Arabs finding us to come on with this order and resolution, thought not fit to adventure on us, so we gained the Hill, from whence we might discern these vast and noble Ruins, having a plain like a Sea for greatness to the Southwards of it. Here having refreshed our Men, we fetch’d a little Compass and descended by the Foot of a Mountain, on which stands a great Castle, but uninhabited. Here two Arabs came to us with Lances, one being Chiah to Melkam, and we sent two to meet them; they gave the Salam alika: and ours returned the Alica salam, and advancing to our Company, told us the Emir had understood of our coming, and had sent them to acquaint us that he was our Friend, and that all the Country was ours. We sent back with them our Janizary and a Servant to visit the Prince in his Tents, which were in a Garden. In the mean time, we dismounted at a watering place amidst the Ruins, but did not unload till our Janizary and Servant returned with the Emir's Tes carr, assuring us of Friendship and Protection, a Writing which, the Arabs were never known to violate before. With them came also one that belonged to the Sheick of the Town, for whom we had letters from Vseffe Aga the Emeen of Aleppo. He desired us for greater security to pitch our Tents under the Town Walls, which is in the Ruins of a great Palace, the Wall yet standing very high, the Town within but small, and the Houses excepting two or three no better than Hog-styes. So we pitched in a deep Sandy Ground where we found it exceeding hot. Here we waited till three of the Clock without eating any thing, expecting the Sheick should have presented us according to the usual Custom of the Turks to their Friends, and have given some answer to the Letters we brought him; but on the contrary we found by the gesture of the People, that we had Reason to suspect them. Hereupon two of our Company, believing that the want of a Present to the Emir was the cause thereof, resolved to adventure to give him a Visit, and taking the Janizary and one Servant, they carried Him a Present of two pieces of Red Cloath, and four of Green, and several other things: Being come, he welcomed them into his Tent, and placed the one on his right hand and the other on his left. Melkam was a young Man, not above Five and Twenty, and well Featur'd and a most Excellent Horse-man; Hamett Shideed, the other Prince, was more elderly, as about Forty years of Age, and was not in the Tent, but sate under a Palm-tree near it. He treated them with Coffee, Camels-flesh and Dates, and enquired of their Journey, and the Cause of their Coming: They told him 'twas only curiosity to see those Ruins; he said that formerly Solomon Ibn el Dood Built a City in that place, which being destroyed, was Built again by a strange People, and he believed that we understanding the writing on the Pillars, came to seek after Treasure, he having but six Moons before found a Pot of Corra Crusles. After this he went out of the Tent, leaving them smoking Tobacco, to the Janizary and Servant, and told them, that never till that day any Franks had been at that place, and that now we knew the way through the Desert, we might inform the Turks to their Ruin and Destruction, so that 'twould be convenient for them to destroy us all: but that we coming as Friends, he would only have 4000 Dollars as a Present, else he would hang them and the two Franks up, and go fight the rest. This message being brought them, they wisht they had excused themselves from this Embassy, and answered, they could say nothing to that Demand, not knowing our Minds, but if he would permit them to go and speak with the rest, they would return an answer. Hearing this, he threatened present Death, but at length gave leave to our Janizary to carry us a Letter from them, wherein they shewed the danger they were in, and earnestly entreated us to redeem them, the price set on them being 2000 Dollars, one half in Money, the other half in Goods, as Swords, Cloaths, Tents, &c. which the Emir promised to estimate at their worth. This Letter amazed us mightily, and a little before it arrived, we understanding a little, and fearing more ill treatment to our Friends, were getting ready to free them or dye with them. The Garden where Melkam lay, was about half a Mile from the Tents, full of Palm Trees, and had no Walls, but loose Stones piled up breast high about them, so we designed to have gone suddenly and given two or three Volleys on them, e're they could get to Horse; and the Arab knows not how to Fight on Foot. And though they bragg'd they had 400 Men, we supposed 200 might be the most, and they not all Lances. But on Receipt of this Letter, and the Servants telling us, that they would certainly be cut off, if we endeavoured their Rescue, we begun to examin what Moneys we had, Cloaths and other Trade, and found we could not near make up that Summ. In this Confusion came two Arabs to receive the things, and immediately word was brought that the Emir would come and Visit us; we sent him word, that if he came with more than two followers, we would not admit him: so he came with two Servants only; and in conclusion, we made him up in Money and Goods to the Value of 1500 Dollars. He valuing our Things as we pleased; his Design being not so much to compleat the Sum, as to take from us all we had. After this, about Sun Set, he returned us our two Friends, when the Sheck of the Town invited us to Lodge within the Town; which we found afterwards was with a design to have forced something from us: but we giving him to understand that the Emir had taken all already, and had left us only our Arms and the Cloathes on our Backs; which if they would have, they must Fight for: that Resolution daunted them, and away they went, promising us Barley for our Horses in the Morning. We kept good watch in the Night, and when Day broke, we began to consider how to clear our selves; we expected the Barley till Nine in the Morning, when it came, and the Emir himself came and gave us the good Morrow: We feared least they should pretend to stop some of us in the Gate-way, so we placed six of our Company to secure the Passage, till all the rest were got out, under pretence of taking an Inscription that was over the Gate. Being all got clear, we returned by the same way we came and arrived at Aleppo July 29, in the Morning. This Melkam told us, that if we had not submitted our selves to his Demands, he was resolved to Fight us, after this Method: Loading Camels with Baggs of Sand, and making small holes in the Baggs for the Sand to drop out, he would drive these Camels abreast upon us before the Wind, that the Sand might blow in our Eyes, and we spending our Bullets on the Camels, might so be easily overthrown; we answered, that we believed he would not venture his Camels and Horses to such a Combat. He wondered extremely when we talked of Shooting Birds flying, and Hares running. This and other the like Violences used by this Arab Prince, made the Bassa of Aleppo resolve to destroy him; and not long after he cajoled him with the Hopes of being made King of the Arabs, and to draw him near the City, he Veited and Caressed some of his Followers: which having its effect, the Bassa surprized him in his Tents by Night, and soon after he was put to Death: This those People were willing to believe the effect of their so abusing the English, and might much contribute to the Security and good Usage they found, that went the second time on this Expedition. We had not time to view these Ruins by reason of this usage, though perhaps we might with safety. We only took one of the Inscriptions as we past by (that of Pag. 89. of the last Transaction) which was thus. \[ \text{Σεπτιμίων ουροδήν τον κρατικτόν} \\ \text{ἐπιτρόπον Σεβαστού δούκηναπίον} \\ \text{και ἀπ. ἀπίθην ιουλίος αυραίος σανώς} \\ \text{ωακιανοῦ τοῦ ἀλέναιον ἐπιέγε} \\ \text{ρούων τον φίλον και προστάθην} \\ \text{ετοὺς ὁ ΦΜΗΝΕΙ ΞΑΝΔΙΚΩ.} \] wherein the principal difference is in the word \(\alpha\sigma\gamma\eta\pi\tau\eta\) which in the account already published is read \(\alpha\sigma\gamma\alpha\pi\epsilon\lambda\eta\), which seems to signify some peculiar Officer of the Syrians, as Dacenarius of the Latines, which per- haps those skill'd in the Oriental Customs and Languages, may be able to expound. As far as we could conclude from our Journeys, and the Position of the Ways taken by two good Compasses, the Distance of Tadmor from Aleppo is about 150 English Miles, and the Course S. S. E. or rather somewhat more Southerly, considering the Variation of the Compass, which is above half a Point Westward in these Parts. The Second Voyage, Anno 1691: We set out from Aleppo for Tadmor, on Michaelmas-day, being in all, Masters and Servants, thirty Men, well armed, having obtained a Promise of Security from Assyne then King of the Arabs, and one of his own People for a Guide. This day our Road pointed S. b. E. and in four hours we came to a Fountain call'd Caphir-Abiad, leaving Old Aleppo about an hour distant on the right-hand: here we made but a very short stay; but proceeded to a better Fountain at the Foot of a very high Hill, cover'd with loose Stones, the Ruines of a Village called Broeder, of which there was not one House remaining; and dining here, we advanced in an hour and a quarter more, in the Afternoon, through a fertile open place, to a place called Emghir, famous for the best Wheat that is brought to Aleppo. This we made our first Stage; and mounting again in the Morning about five a clock, in less than an hour, past by an uninhabited Village, call'd Urghee, our Road pointing as before, through the fruitful Plain, even and pleasant; but when we came to ascend the Hills, where I reckon'd we entred the Desart, and were to take our leave of Mankind, at least of an inhabited Country for some days, we had a troublesome passage, over loose great Stones, without any appearance of a Road. Our Guide had promised to conduct us through pleasant Groves and Forests; but no such thing appeared, unless we would bestow that name upon low withered Shrubs that grew in the Way, only one Tree we saw, which was of good use to us, serving as a Land-mark; and when we were come up with it, being left at a little distance on the right-hand, we gain'd the prospect of a remote ridge of Hills before us, and on the top of one of them an old Castle; this Castle, we were told, was known by the Name of Gazar Ibn Wordan; but what it anciently was, or in what Condition it is at present, I could not learn; therefore, not unwillingly, I turned my Eyes from it, to a little round Hill more on the left, by which we were to direct our course, and about a quarter of an hour from which stood a Sheck's House, call'd Sheck Ailha, where we were to bait, with a Well of Water by it, but such that we had but little gusto to taste, though it served our Horses: All the Country hereabouts is stor'd with Gazels, and there is a barbarous sort of People there, that have hardly any thing else to live upon, but what of these they can kill; and Necessity has taught them to be no mean Artists in their way, for they lie down behind the Stones, and as the poor harmless Creature passes, shoot them; and though their Guns be very ordinary, exceeding heavy and thick, with Match-Locks, yet are they such excellent Marksmen, that they kill many. That morning we had travelled about five hours to reach Sheck Ailha's; yet finding nothing to invite our stay there, (though there were four or five Tombs there not ill made, according to the Turkish mode,) about one a clock we mounted again, bending to the S. E. or something more Easterly. In our way we had two remarkable Prospects, one on the right-hand, of the Ruines of an ancient City call'd Andecin, and sometimes Londrine, which we were told had been formerly inhabited by Franks, and that there were many Inscriptions there; but it was too far out of our way, and withal something too dangerous to, for us to take a view of them: The other, on the left-hand, was another Tree, not far from which our Guide assured us of good Water, where we designed to take up our lodging; the hopes of the Water made us slight a. Well we past by on the Road, at which afterwards we repented we had not stay'd; for when we came up with the Tree, from which we had declined a great way to the right, we found our Water still at a very great distance, and were constrained to take new Directions by a white chalky Hill, almost as far as we could see, and yet not much beyond the place which was to be our Stage; on therefore we proceeded till Sun-set, very weary, and almost without hope of our coming to Water that night, though at the same time near dead with thirst; and which the more surpriz'd us, our Guide was advanced a great way before, out of our sight, upon what design we knew not, but at his return, we found 'twas only to assure himself better of the way, and in an hour's time more he brought us to the side of a Bog, call'd by the Name of Zerga, where, such as it was, we found Water enough, but it was neither palatable nor wholesome, neither did the Ground seem proper to sleep upon; yet we were forced to be content, there being no removing thence that night. October 1. We departed from Zerga, about two hours before Sun-rise, and as soon as it was light, had the prospect of a very high Hill, which was to be the bounds of our travel that day. To this we made as directly as we could look, finding nothing in our way observable either to arrest our curiosity, or to slacken our pace, except a multitude of Holes made in the sandy Earth, by Rats, Serpents, and other Animals, which render'd our riding a little troublesome; as we had found it upon the same account the Afternoon before. About two hours short short of our Stage, we were shewn three little round Hills lying to the right in a direct line, known by the name of Tenage; where we were told there was good Water, and its for that reason only they deserve the notice of those that travel through such a thirsty Desert. The Place to which we directed our course was called Efree, where we arrived about eleven a clock, and found, to our great satisfaction, that our Guide had not deceived us in his Promise of excellent Water: here we could discern the Foundations of a spacious City, and a piece of a thick Wall, built of a chalky Stone, was standing: this we judged to be the remainder of a Castle situated on the side of the Hill, so as both to defend and command the City. On the top of the Hill, above the Castle, stands the Ruines of a Fabrick, in appearance very ancient, built of very hard Stone, yet exceedingly worn by the Weather; 'tis of an oblong figure, pointing near to the N.E. and S.W. with only one Door on the Easterly end, which was once adorned with extraordinary good Carvings, of which there are still some remains, but the greatest part is either worn away, or purposely defaced; and those marks of ancient Beauty that remain are very obscure, and difficultly discernable; the outside of the Walls is beautified with Pillasters quite round, with their Pedestals and Capitals regular and handsome; but the Roof is all fallen down, and within appears nothing which looks either great or beautiful. The Situation, and placing the Door, hinders one from conjecturing it to have been a Christian Oratory, or Chapel, and therefore in probability it must have been a Heathen Temple; and if so, then the piece of the Castle Wall being of a softer Stone, must be much more modern; the goodness of the Water brings the Arabs (who rove up and down the Desert) and the Turk-men frequently hither, which has occasioned a great many Graves about the Temple; and some have had leisure, and (which is more difficult to be imagin'd) skill enough to scratch in the Walls the first Letters of their Names, and many more in Arabick Characters, which we could make nothing of, no more than of an Arabick Inscription which lay hard by, but appeared not ancient. October the 2d. We departed from Efree, about an hour or an hour and an half after Midnight, and in six hours and an half arrived at two Wells, the water 18 fathom and two foot deep, known by the name of Imp malcha Giub: through the greatest part of this Stage we had a broad beaten Road, and where that was not discernible, we guided our selves by a ridge of Chalky Hills, under which the Wells lay; the Water we found exceeding bad, and of so noisom a scent, that we could not endure it so much as at our Noses; which made our Guide laugh at us, who told us, the Arabs, and even the King himself used to drink freely of it; which, I am sure, our Horses would not do, though they were under a necessity of drinking that or none: For our selves, we had brought from Efree Water sufficient for one day at least. In our way hither we were shewn the true Plant which they burn for Soap-Ashes, which has no Leaves, but a soft juicy Stalk shooting into several Branches, and something resembling our Sanphire, only it's more round than that; the Ashes likewise we saw, which were made not far from the Wells, which in burning run into Cakes, not much unlike the Cinders of a Forge, only they are heavier, and not so full of pores, nor so hard as they are. In the Afternoon, we proceeded on our Voyage two hours and an half, to a place called Almyrrha, passing rather between than over the Hills, though we had something of an ascent too; this we did to shorten our Stage the next Morning, for we were told before-hand we should find no Water upon those Mountains; so, for our Selves, we liv'd liv'd upon our old stock, and our Horses were constrained to pass that night without Water. Our Journey hitherto had been altogether Southerly, and but little varying to the Eastward of due South. October the 3d. We mounted from Almyrrha between five and six in the Morning, making to the point of a high ridge of Mountains, through an uneven desert way, frequently interrupted with Guts and Channels, probably made by the descent of the Waters from the Hills, upon sudden Rains: we came to the ascent after about four hours travel, which we found not difficult; and when we were on the top, we had a pleasant prospect of the Country, and what we rejoiced at most, we were shewn a little Hill, just behind which, we were told, lay Tadmor. This Mountain was covered on both sides with great plenty of Turpentine-Trees, which was an Object very pleasing, having seen very few greens in our whole Journey: This Tree grows very thick and shady, and several of them we saw loaded with a vast abundance of a small round Nut, the chief use whereof is to make Oil, though some eat them, and account them as great a Regalio as Pistaches; there outward Husk is green, and more oily than that of Pistaches, and within a very thin shell is contained a Kernel both in colour and relish very much resembling them; but those that eat them, seldom take the pains to search for the Kernels, but eat Husk and Shell all together, which have no ungrateful taste: From this Hill we had a tedious descent, and coming at the foot into a narrow gut, winding this way and that between the Mountains, our Passage seemed very long, hot and tiresome; our want of Water however obliged us to proceed, whereof we now began to be in great necessity, especially for our Horses and Mules, who had none the night before, nor none all that day; with this we had hopes of being supplied two different ways; having had a shower. shower of Rain the night before, we hoped to have found Water standing in the hollows of the Rocks; but either the Rain had not reach'd so far, or not in such plenty as to fill those naturally hewed Cisterns: our other expectation was from the Wells that were in the Road; but these our Guide advancing before and examining, met us with the unwelcom news, that they were all dried up, and the best advice he could give us, was to pitch where we were, and content ourselves with the remains of what we had brought two days in our Vessels, till our Horses and Mules might be sent to a Fountain two hours out of our way, and being watered there themselves, bring a fresh supply for us: This way, with some difficulty, we assented to, as more eligible, than weary as we were, to wander so far out of the Road, to have the same Ground to stage over again the next morning: we resolved therefore to send our Guide, with one or two of our Servants, in search of the Water, and afterwards others with our Horses, while in the mean time we pitcht our Tents, it being then about two a clock in the Afternoon: As soon as they were gone, a small drizzling Rain, which we had about half an hour, increased to a very plentiful shower, which put us upon producing all the Vessels we had to catch it as it fell from the Heavens, or ran down the skirts of our Tents, our Horses at the same time greedily drinking it from the ground; but we might have spared our pains, for in less than half an hour's time, our Camp was in a manner a float, and we were surrounded with Water not only sufficient for us, but for an Army of 20000 Men; those hollow Gutts which we passed over without the least appearance of moisture, were, by the Cataracts which descended from the Mountains, become Rivers; and our Guide, with those Servants we had sent out, that before rode over it dry, it being swoln to such a torrent, were put to some difficulty to re-pass it; so plenti- plentifully was God pleased to provide for us in our greatest streight; and which encreases both the Wonder and Mercy, the next morning, all this great quantity of Water was past away, so that in about two hour's riding we could hardly perceive that there had been any Rain at all. This memorable Place is known by the name of Al-Wishal. October the 4th. From Al-Wishal we proceeded for Tadmor, some of the Ruines of which we perswaded ourselves we could see the day before; perhaps it might be the Castle, which is more than half an hour's distance from the City; our way lay Southward, but the Gut in which we travelled would not permit us to keep a direct course: however, in about an hour's walk, we past by Antor Mountains (our Guide call'd them Toul Antor) through a gutt or rent, both sides of which so directly answered one to the other, they would tempt a Man to believe they were separated by Art, for an entrance into the Country; but it must have been a work of prodigious Labour and Charges to have cut through such vast Mountains: and if any one was so hardy as to attempt it, he certainly grew weary of his Undertaking; for the Ground is levelled but a very little way, and almost as soon as we were well got within the open space, we were obliged to ascend another Hill, and so our Road continued over Hills and Valleys interchangeably all the way. On the left-hand, some distance from the Road, we saw a Sheck's House, on the top of a high Hill, which made a better Show than usually those Buildings do; but being assured by our Guide it was a modern Structure, and eager too to come to the principal Place we aimed at, we would not prolong our Stage so much as to turn out of the Road, to see more of it: so pressing still forwards, we had hardly proceeded four hours, when we came to the brow of a rocky Mountain, separated from that whereon stands the Castle of Tadmor, but by a narrow Valley: Valley: in which Hill, by the Way, appeared some Quarries of fine Stone, which probably might afford Materials to the curious Buildings in the City. Our Guide here (according to his accustomed Diligence) advanced some few paces before us, and having espied three or four Country Fellows driving Asses towards us, he caused us to make halt, to give them an opportunity to come nearer to us, resolving to speak with them, to know whether the coast was clear, or if any of the Mountain Arabs were then at Tadmor, or not. After a little space, with our Arms in our Hands, we marched, in as good order as the way would permit, down a rocky and steep Precipice, into the Valley; and our Guide making greater speed than we could, gallop'd after the poor affrighted Country Fellows; who seeing such a Company unexpectedly descend the Hill, left their Asses, and fled towards the City with all possible speed: But they were soon overtaken, and brought back again to us; to whom they related the good news, that there was no Force at all in Tadmor, and that we might proceed with courage, and see what we would there with all safety: Which News obtained them their liberty to go again to their Asses, and we continued in our Way. Having tired ourselves with roving from Ruine to Ruine, and romaging among old Stones, from which little Knowledge could be obtained; and more-especially not thinking it safe to linger too long in a place, where, should the Mountain Arabs (who were Enemies to Assyne Abasse, our Friend) have intelligence of us, they might either fall upon or endeavour to intercept us in our return; (for which reason also we had all along concealed our intended Course, under a pretence of proceeding forward to Damascus,) On Thursday, Octob. 8. about half an hour after four in the Morning, we departed from Tadmor, being very well satisfied with what we had seen, and glad to have escaped so dreaded a Place, without any trouble or pretences upon us; but else with some regret, for having left a great many things behind, which deserved a more particular and curious Inspection. Our Road lay almost due East, or a little enclining to the North; and on the left-hand, a ridge of Hills stretched along for a great space, sometimes about half an hour distant from the Road, and sometimes opening wider: These Hills, we were told, were stored with rich Veins of divers Minerals, and afforded all that vast quantity of Marble, the Remains whereof we had seen at Tadmor; and it was from a Fountain call'd Abulfarras, at the foot of one of them, they fetcht out Water, which we drank there; the Inhabitants contenting themselves with that which runs from the Hot Springs. To the right-hand lay a vast barren Plain, perfectly bare, and hardly any thing green to be seen therein, except it were a few Gourds, which our Servants found on the side of a little rising-Ground, where there was no shew of any thing moist to feed them. Our Way being plain, we had the sight of Tadmor, especially the Castle, for above half our Stage, till we came to an old Caphar House. We made indeed a very short Day's Journey in the whole, finding a Fountain of excellent Water in about five hours and a half's riding; which, as it was a most welcom Refreshment to us in such a thirsty Desart, so it was the only good Water we met with till we came to Euphrates, which was not till the third day from this place. At this Fountain we pitcht, near to which is a Village, but almost wholly ruined and deserted. 'Twas some time before any body would be seen, for they were afraid of us; at length, three Men came out to our Tents, Spectacles of a miserable poverty, occasion'd by their being frequently pillaged by the Mountain Arabs, and a great Duty they pay to Af-syne Abasse their King, for his Protection: Three hun- dred Dollars they pay him annually, when one would think the whole Village was not able to make up the Summ of One hundred; yet being the remotest Place that was under his Jurisdiction, they often suffer by the Inroads of the other. The Name of the Place is Tarecca, a Name it received (as we were inform'd) from a Victory obtained there by the Turks over the Mamalukes. October the 9th. From Tarecca we mounted early, and travelling N. E. or near that Point, in seven hour's time arrived at Soukney. The Road we found much like what we had the day before, lying over a barren Plain; only we had Hills on both sides, and sometimes closing within half an hour's riding one of the other. The Village has its Name from the Hot Waters, (for so the word imports,) which are of the same Nature with those of Tadmor; herein they Bathe frequently, the same little dirty Hole serving both for Men and Women; only they have so much Modesty remaining, that they have different hours for one and the other. To say the truth, 'twas the only mark of Modesty I could observe among them; in other respects they seemed a Confident, or rather Impudent Generation of People. Before we could pitch our Tents, they flockt about us in multitudes, Men, Women, and Children; and of the last, many of them as naked as ever they came into the World, not so much as a Rag about them to cover them; and so numerous they appeared, that if we had reason to think Tarecca wanted Inhabitants, we had no less, to conclude Soukney over-stockt. At this Place usually resides an Officer of Assyne's, who is their Sub-Basha, or Governor: He whom we found there, was call'd Dor, of a good Family among the Arabs, to whom we made a Present; and he civilly return'd it in Barley for our Horses. Afterward he came under our Tents, and invited us to an Entertainment; which, considering the Circumstances cumstances of the Place, was very splendid, though it was nothing but Pilaw at last, a little diversify'd by the dressing; and, to speak truly, I judge we could not have less than a Bushel of Rice set before us. His Palace, indeed was not very stately, there being few Cottages in England but might vye with it. To the Room wherein we were entertained, which, doubtless, was the best, if not the only one he had, we were forced to clamber, rather than ascend, by broken Steps made of Stone and Dirt. When we were got in, and commodiously seated after the Turkish mode, it seemed large enough for about a dozen or fourteen People: At the upper end was a little space separated from the rest by a ridge made up of Earth, within which, I suppose, he slept. The Walls were mean; but the Roof much worse, having no other Covering but Faggots; so that certainly it could not be Proof against a Shower of Rain which fell that night, and forced us out of our Tents, into an old ruinous Cane, for shelter: However, it served well enough for our Afternoon's Collation; and we had come away with a good Opinion of the Gentleman's Civility, had he not afterwards endeavoured to make a Pretence upon us, and so would have forced us to pay dear for our Rice: He pretended to a customary Duty of a Chequeen a Head of all Franks that past that Road; though probably neither he, nor his Grandfather before him, had ever seen a Frank there before. But when he understood by our Guide, that we were not so easily to be imposed upon; and withal, that we were Affyne's Friends, and in our way to his Tents; and especially our Treasurer a Person he very much esteemed, who therefore would be sure to acquaint him with any Exaction or Injury offer'd us, his Mouth was quickly stopt, and he grew so sensible of his Error, that he sent to excuse it, and presented our Treasurer with a Fan of Black Ostrich Feathers; and not only so, but in the morning came himself, and begging Pardon, Pardon, desiring nothing might be said of what had past, and so conducted us about an hour on our way. This Village pays to Affyne Fifteen hundred Dollars per Annum. October the 10th. Continuing our Voyage still to the N. E. or something more Easterly, we found it another pleasant and easy Stage to another Village call'd Tiebe, so called (as they say) from the Goodness of the Water, the word signifying good: but we found them not so over-excellent; they had the taste, and were doubtless tinctured with the same Mineral, with those of Soukney and Tadmor, though not so strong. But the Village itself made a better Shew than usual; and the People appear'd of something better fashion, and more civiliz'd, than those we had left. It's pleasantly situated, and makes a good appearance as one comes up to it; the Prospect being helped by a well built Steeple, to which is now adjoyned their Mosque: but I am apt to believe it the Remains of a Christian Church, being built with more Art and Beauty than you shall easily find in Turkish Fabricks: And there are also several Ruines about it, which speak it to have been a more famous Place than now it is. Into the Mosque we were permitted to enter, without any Disturbance. This Village lies in one of the Roads from Aleppo to Bagdatt, and pays to Affyne an Annual Tribute of One thousand Dollars. From hence we mounted again in the Afternoon, and proceeded about two hours and an half farther, to shorten our next day's Stage. Having travelled this day, in all, about seven or eight hours, the Place we pitcht at was a Fountain, and known by the Name of Alcome; but neither Town nor House by it: neither was the Water fit to be drank, being of the same nature with that of Soukney, and almost as warm. October the 11th. From Alcome we rose about an hour and an half after Midnight, our Guide groping out the way, by the help of the Stars, which now bended more to the North than formerly. As soon as it was light enough to look about us, we found ourselves in a wild open Desert, the Ground, in some places, covered with a sort of Heath, and in others quite bare. Nor had we travelled long after the Sun was up, before, by the help of a rising-Ground, we discovered Arsoffa, the Place whither we were tending, which gave us hopes we should quickly be there: but having a dry tiresom Plain to traverse, and the hot Sun causing our Mules a little to slacken their pace, 'twas after ten a clock before we reach'd it: And which was more vexatious still, finding no Water anywhere near, we were necessitated to pro- ceed forward for the River Euphrates, which we found four hours distant from hence. Arsoffa, or (as the Arabs call it) Arsoffa Emir, seems to be the Remains of a Mo- nastery, having no Town nor Village near it, and being one continued Pile of Building of an oblong figure, stretching long-ways East and West, and enclosing a very capacious Area: At a distance it makes a glittering shew, being built of Gypse Stone, or Rock-Ising-glass, resembling Alabaster, but not so hard; several Quarries of which we past by in our way to it. When the Sun shines upon it, it reflects the Beams so strong, that they dazzle the Eyes of the Spectators. Art or Accuracy in the Workmanship we found none; and but very little Carved Work, and that mean enough; nay, the very Cement they made use of, is but little better than Dirt: so that it's no great wonder to see it in Ruines, though it has not the appearance of any great Antiquity. Round about were the little Appartments or Chambers for the Monks, built Arch-wise, only one Story above ground; but underneath are several Cells or Vaults, larger than the Chambers, which perhaps might serve for their Schools, or Working-houses. In the midst of the Area stand the Ruines of several Buildings, some of which seem to have been Cisterns for Water, and it may be Bathing-places: but the most remarkable was one, which probably was the Abbot's or Bishop's House, there having been something more pains bestowed upon it, than the rest: and another, which was the Relicks of their Church. This was formerly no unhandsom Structure, being built in the form of our Churches, and distinguisht into three Isles, of which the middle one is supported by eighteen turned Marble Pillars, with Capitals upon them, not of Marble, but of a sort of Clay, and Cast into the shape they are in, but of a colour exactly resembling the Pillar itself. That which persuades to believe them Cast, is a Greek Inscription to be seen on all of them; the Letters whereof are not made by incision in the Stone, but seem to be stamped, standing out higher than the distance between them; and on one of them, by mistake, they are so placed, as to be read after the Oriental manner, from the right-hand to the left. The words are these, with the Crucifix before, as follows: \[ \text{ΕΠΙ ΣΕΡΓΙΑ ΕΠΙΕΚΟ. Τα ΛΥΝΤΕΝ ΜΑΡΩΝΙΑ Τα ΧωΡΕΠΙΕΚΟ.} \] From hence our Guide led us to the River, by the assistance of two little Hills, which are known by the Name of Aff Dien, our way lying North, and a little bending to the East. The sight of the River was a very pleasing Prospect; and to our great comfort, we found the Water very clear, happening to be there before the Rains, and after the Snow-Waters (which swell and disturb it in the Summer-time) were all past: and our Happines seemed the greater, having had so tedious and thrifty a Journey of at least fourteen hours, and neither our Selves nor our Horses toucht a drop of Water all day. We pitcht upon a Reach of the River, where it was not very broad, not being above half a Musket-shot over. October October the 12th. This Morning, about Sun-rise, we proceeded on our Voyage, keeping along the Banks of the River, which, for the most part, led us West and North-West: And here we had pleasant travelling, having the River on the right-hand, and Hills of Marble or other fine Stone, on the left; and delightful Groves of Tamarisk, Mulberry, and other Trees to pass through. Here every thing about us look fresh and verdant, and we met frequently Men and Women passing on their Occasions, a thing to which (in our former Stages) we had not been accustomed. We had also a pleasing Prospect of the opposite Shore, and could see a great way into Mesopotamia, but could meet with no Convenience to cross the River, which we were very desirous to have done. There are no Places of Note remaining upon the River either on one side or the other, only on the farther side we saw an old Castle call'd Giabar, which made a good Shew, being situated on the top of a Hill, and both for that and the way of Building, very much resembling that of Aleppo, only that is the larger, and in the midst of a City; this less, and has neither Town nor Houses about it. On our side we past by a Sheck's House call'd Abul-Rarra, and the Ruines of a Town a little farther, where there was a square Tower built of very ordinary Brick, but pretty entire. After we had left these Ruines, we rested to bait, under the shadow of a Rock, wherein were many Appartments and Conveniences cut to lodge in, which I suppose are made use of in the Winter by the People, who, during the Summer, pitch among the Trees by the River-side. In the Afternoon we continued our Journey as before, keeping always at a little distance from the River, till a little before Sun-set; when we came to a very convenient Place upon the Banks, where we took up our lodging for that night, having travell'd between seven or eight hours the whole day. October the 13th. This day we had the same Satisfaction as the day before, proceeding as near the River as the Road would permit; and having made a Stage of about six hours, we rested under the shade of the Tamarisk Trees by the River-side, hoping to have found conveniency to have crost it: but we could not. In our way we saw nothing observable but the Ruines of a City call'd Baulus, where the Turks had formerly a Sangiack; but now there is never an Inhabitant in the Place, nor House standing, but the Ruines of Houses, and an Octagonal Tower of a considerable height, viz. One hundred and seven Steps, and beautified on the out-side with Florishes and an Arabick Inscription round about: It's a handsom Structure, and probably the Work of the Mamalukes, since whose time little has been done to adorn, but abundance to destroy and waste this Countrey. After Dinner, we mounted sooner than ordinary; because hoping to reach the Tents of Assyne, we were unwilling it should be late when we arrived: yet we made it near Sunset before we got to Fay, a Fountain by which he lay. We had travell'd still on the same Point N. W. with the prospect of the River the greater part of the way; the nearest Reach thereof not being above an hour's riding from the Fountain. On the Road we met with several Bandera's of the Emir's Soldier's, who knowing our Guide, and understanding we were going to him, gave us a very courteous Salam, who else, perhaps, might have treated us with another sort of Civility. The King's Tents spread over a large Plain, and took up so vast a space, that though we had the advantage of a rising-Ground, we could not see the uttermost extent of them. His own particular Tent was pretty near the middle of the rest, which were pitcht about it, not in a circular manner, but stretching out in length as the Plain open'd, or for the better conveniency of a current of Water which from the Fountain ran through through the midst of them. 'Twas not at all distinguishable from the rest, but by its Bigness, and a little more Company about it, being all made of a sort of Hair-Cloth, which seemed hardly a defence against Rain or Sun: But certainly they must find otherwise, else their Necessity (they spending their lives in such moveable Habitations) would have taught them to have contrived something better. It cannot well be doubted but they are descended from the old Arabs Scenitæ, they living just after the same manner, having no settled Abode, but remove from Fountain to Fountain, as they find Grass for their Sheep and Camels, and Water for them and themselves. They love to derive themselves from Ismael the Son of Abraham; and it may be they are descended from him, but I believe they would be hard put to't to prove their Pedigree. As soon as we alighted, we were attended by the Officers of the Emir, and conducted to a very noble Tent built after the Turkish mode, and pitcht next to his own. Hither he sent to bid us welcome, and to enquire how we had past in our Voyage; and presently after, we had a Repast of several Dishes of Meat set before us, to stay our Appetites till a more plentiful Supper could be got ready. But before Supper, the King himself made us a Visit in Person, bidding us welcome to Fay, and asking what we had seen in our Travels that pleas'd us? how we liked Tadmor? and whether we had found a Treasure there? For this Notion sticks in the Heads of these People, That the Franks go to see old Ruines, only because they there meet with Inscriptions which direct them to some hid Treasures. And therefore it's no unusual thing with them, when they find a Stone with an Inscription on one side, to turn that down to the ground, that it might not be seen or read of any. But we assured him we went with no such Expectations, but only out of a desire to see the Place; neither had we brought any thing away with us, but a piece of Porphyry Stone, which, upon his request, we shew'd him. We let him see too, a kind of rude Draught which we had taken of the Place; which he seemed to like. He made his Visit the shorter, that he might not incommode us after our Journey; but desir'd us we would live after our own Pleasure and to our Satisfaction, and command freely whatever the Camp would afford; ordering some of his People constantly to attend upon us. When there was mention made of our design to be gone the next morning, he answer'd, It must not be; himself was invited, the next day, to a great Entertainment, by one of his Grandees, and we should accompany him: but the day following, he would go out with us, and hunt part of our way towards Aleppo. When Supper was brought in, there was Victuals enough for three times our number: A large Dish of Pilaw in the middle, and twelve or fifteen Dishes of several sorts of Meat about it, all drest after their manner, but exceeding good, and such as one might have fed heartily upon, had he not spoil'd his Appetite before. After we had eat and drank what we pleas'd, we rose up, and our Servants sate down in our Places; it being the Custom of the Arabs, and Turks too, from the Highest to the Meanest, all to eat at the same Table: The best sort sit down first, and so in order till all are satisfy'd, and then what remains is carry'd away. We might, if we had pleas'd, have lodg'd under the same Tent where we eat; but having Tents of our own pitcht, some of our Company chose rather to retire thither, to avoid being disturbed by too many Visitants. October the 14th. The next morning, about ten a clock, we were told that the King was gone to the Entertainment, and expected we should follow him; and that two young Camels were kill'd, to furnish this sumptuous Feast; which is the highest piece of Magnificence licence and Greatness to which these People, whose greatest Riches consist in Camels, can arrive. The Tent was about a Furlong from ours; so mounting our Horses, we rode to it, and found it surrounded with a numerous train of Guests, Three hundred at least, of different sort and quality: It was very large of itself, and to be still more capacious, 'twas left open toward the West. The King was seated at the North-end, about the midst of the Tent, upon a Place raised with Cushions and Quilts, and Carpets before him: neither did he sit cross-legged, as all the rest of the Company were obliged to do, but in a leaning posture. They seemed to observe an exact Order in their Places; and when any Person of Note enter'd, those that were near his Place, rose up and stood till he had seated himself. But the far greatest part could not come within the compass of the Ring, but stood behind the Backs of the rest, leaving a spacious Area vacant in the middle. When we entred, they made room for us on the King's left-hand, which here is esteem'd the more Honourable; where we sate down in the same posture with those about us, cross-legged, upon a thin Carpet. Before mid-day, a Carpet being spread in the middle of the Tent, our Dinner was brought in, being served up in large wooden Bowls between two Men; and truly, to my apprehension, Load enough for them. Of these great Platters there were about fifty or sixty in number, perhaps more, with a great many little ones, I mean, such as one Man was able to bring in, strewed here and there among them, and placed for a Border or Garnish round about the Table. In the middle of all was one of a larger size than all the rest, in which were the Camel's Bones, and a thin Broth in which they were boiled: The other greater ones seemed all filled with one and the same sort of Provision, a kind of Plumb-broth, made of Rice, and the fleshy part of the Camel, with Currants and Spices, being of something a darker a darker Colour than what is made in our Country. The lesser were, for the most part, charged with Rice dress'd after several modes, some of them having Leben, (a thick sour Milk) poured upon them. Leben is a thing in mighty esteem in these hot Countries, being very useful to quench Thirst: And truly we had need of it here; for I did not see a drop of any sort of Liquor, excepting a Dish of Coffee before Dinner, drank at this splendid Feast. Knives, Forks, Spoons, Trenchers, &c. are silly impertinent things in the esteem of the Arabs: however, we being known to make use of such things, had large Wooden Spoons laid before us. When the Table was thus plentifully furnish't, the King arising from his Seat, went and sate down to that Dish that was directly before him; and so did the rest, as many as it would contain, which could not be much short of a hundred; and so without further Ceremony, they fell to, thrusting their Hands into the Dishes, and eating by handfuls: Neither was there any occasion of Carving; only because those Dishes in the middle were too remote to be reach'd, there was an Officer on purpose, who stepping in among them, and standing in the spaces designedly left for that end, with a long Ladle in both his Hands, helpt any one according to their desire. When the King had eaten what he thought fit, he rose up and washt, and retir'd back to his former Seat; and we also did the like; others being ready to fill our Places. Nor did we continue much longer under the Tent in that numerous Crowd; for Assyne perceiving us a little uneasy, and supposing we had now sufficiently satisfy'd our Curiosity, though perhaps not our Appetites, told us we might take our liberty, and if we thought fit, retire to our Tents. This Favour we gladly accepted, and without Ceremony returned, several of his Attendants waiting upon us back. Here we had another Dinner set before us; and having some of our own Wine and Water to drink with it, it went down better with us than the famous Camel-Feast. In the evening, the King mounted to see the flight of a new Hawk, and stay'd abroad very late, his Hawk flying away: but she was afterwards taken up by his Falconer; otherwise he had not been in a good humour all that night, being a Man that delights very much in Sport. After his return from Hawking, we went to wait upon him at his own Tent, to return him Thanks for his most Courteous and Royal Reception of us, and to desire leave to depart the next morning. Here we found him surrounded with the chiefest of his People; and being placed again on his Left-hand, he entertain'd us with a great deal of pleasant Discourse; and ask'd such Questions, as shew'd him to be a Man of extraordinary Capacity and Judgment. As for Learning, they have no such thing among them, and therefore it's not to be expected that he should be a Scholar: but were he not a Person of more than common Prudence and Understanding, he could never have managed that wild and unruly People as he has done, ever since his Advancement to the Throne; which must therefore have been the more difficult, because as he came to it by the Deposition of his Father (though not immediately) who now lives with him as a private Man, so has he never wanted Competitors. To his Father he pays a great deal of outward Respect, but is forced to keep a very watchful Eye over him. After about an hour's Discourse, we were dismiss'd. October the 15th. In the morning, Affyne not being at leisure to go a Hunting, we proceeded on our Voyage homewards, with a great deal of alacrity; and finding nothing remarkable in our Road, in about three hours and an half arrived at Seray. And hence, after a short Repast, we continued our Journey to Sherby Fountain, which took us up about the like space of time. Here we accounted ourselves as good as at Home, being at a Place. Place with which we were well acquainted, and to which several times in the year some or other of our Nation usually resort; either for Gazel or Hog-hunting, according to their Season; nor had we hence above seven or eight hours to Aleppo. October the 16th. Getting up pretty early in the morning, we resolved to Hunt the greatest part of our way home, as we did; and dining at the famous Round-Hill, whereon has been spent by the English more Money than would purchase a noble Estate round about it, in the afternoon we arrived safe at Aleppo. III. Some Account of the Ancient State of the City of Palmyra, with short Remarks upon the Inscriptions found there. By E. Halley. The City of Tadmor, whose Remains in Ruines do with so much evidence demonstrate the once happy Condition thereof, seems very well to be proved to be the same City which Solomon the Great King of Israel is said to have founded under that Name in the Desert, both in 1 King. 9. 18. and 2 Chron. 8. 16. in the Translation of which, the Vulgar Latin Version, said to be that of St. Jerom, has it, Condidit Palmyram in Deserto. And Josephus (in lib. 8. Antiq. Jud. wherein he treats of Solomon and his Acts) tells us, that he built a City in the Desert, and called it Thadamora; and the Syrians at this day (says he) call it by the same Name: but the Greeks name it Palmyra. The Name is therefore Greek, and consequently has no relation to the Latin Palma, and seems rather derived from Παλμύρας or Πάλμυρας,